Travel Stories

Falling in love with Bologna, the Italian city with a unique personality

Falling in love with Bologna, the Italian city with a unique personality

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More than 65 million tourists visit Italy per year but only a small fraction of them make it to Bologna. Naturally, I got quite a few questions from locals about why I picked Bologna as one of my travel destinations. 

I had first read about Bologna in a Jack Reacher thriller during my high school days. The description of the city captured my imagination and convinced me that if and when I make it to Italy, Bologna would be on the list. More recently, the soulful episodes on Emilia-Romagna hosted by Stanley Tucci in his “Searching for Italy” series gave me another reason. Hence, after my road trip through Tuscany with friends, Bologna was one of the cities I picked for solo travel. And the only regret I have is not spending enough time here. 

So what makes Bologna special? And should everyone visit it?

The historic charm

Bologna university

Archiginnasio di Bologna

Bologna is home to the oldest university in the world. Yes, you heard that right – not just in Europe, in the whole world. And yes, it’s older than Oxford!

Bologna feels like a city designed around the university. In short, a university town. The university has several buildings spread across the city centre. Throughout the city, you are more than likely to encounter a few of the 85,000 students who study there every year.

As I stepped into the publicly accessible areas of Bologna University, I was transported into another world. Galleries and walls are decorated with inscriptions and celebratory monuments of the professors of the university and coats of arms of students. The lecture theaters and libraries are charming and inviting. One could only imagine that calling this place their alma mater would indeed be an honor.

Bologna’s historic charm goes beyond the university. From Santo Stefano Basilica and Piazza Maggiore to Portico di San Luca, history is hiding in plain sight everywhere in the city.

The modern convenience

Inside a bus

I took a train from Pisa to reach Bologna. Upon reaching, I found my way from the train station to the bus stop easily, read the information boards at the bus stop to understand which direction is the right one, hopped on the bus with all my luggage, paid for tickets by tapping my debit card on the machine (you can also pay by coins or use the transport card locals use), and reached my Airbnb without any hassle.

Buses run on time as shown on Google Maps or as written at the bus stops. Taxis were easy to find using the TaxiClick Easy app and almost everyone spoke enough English to help me out.

It seems like small things but in Florence and Pisa I actually didn’t pay for two bus rides (not that I am proud of it) because I couldn’t figure out how to buy a ticket after boarding the bus. 

Buses in Bologna apparently run the whole night according to students. Perhaps not all buses and definitely not in the same frequency but at least some do run late into the night. 

The train station has an airconditioned room with comfortable seats which serve as the waiting area, unlike most other Italian train stations where you have to wait near the platforms. Each platform has several boards to show you where each coach of the train would stop. You can check your ticket for the coach number beforehand and stand at the right place instead of rushing with luggage after the train has arrived.

Trees have been planted along many of the roads, providing much needed respite from the heat during the peak summer months. Ultimately, it’s a combination of all these small things that make it not just a city good for visiting but a city that’s ideal for living.

The food

Emilia-Romagna is called The Food Valley and for good reason! It is home to many of the culinary specialities that have led to Italy’s worldwide fame: Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Parma ham, traditional balsamic vinegar from Modena and Reggio Emilia, Culatello salami, and tagliatelle and tortellini pasta. To date, Emilia-Romagna boasts 44 PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) products. 

And while Spaghetti Bolognese is not from Bologna or even from Italy (sorry fans!), Bologna is home to many traditional delicacies such as Tagliatelle al Ragù, Tortellini in brodo, and Mortadella among many others.

Tagliatele Ragu

Tagliatelle al Ragù

I had a lavish meal at Ristorante Grassilli where the server specifically told me not to put cheese on my Tortellini in brodo. Of course, I obliged! I was surprised at how simple and yet comforting the dish was.

Tortellini in brodo

Meals in Italy are a leisurely affair. They are not meant to be rushed. Takeaways (whether for food or coffee) are not a beloved concept, at least traditionally. As such you can easily spend a few hours on a meal and the waiters will never rush you either.

I was surprised to see Grassilli’s waiters turning away some walk-in groups because the tables were apparently reserved. I spent at least 1-1.5 hours in the restaurant and many tables were empty throughout that time. In fast-paced countries like Singapore, they would give you the table and tell you there is a dining time limit of 60-90 minutes. But not in Italy, and certainly not at the heart of its Food Valley! 

The natural beauty

Access to unmanicured nature is one of the things I value with all my heart. It’s what I loved about Hong Kong and it’s what I truly miss in Singapore. 

My Airbnb in Bologna was about 20 minutes bus drive from the city centre and was located right next to a national park. In fact, you could see parts of the national park from our balcony.

I spent a few hours hiking in the national park and catching wonderful views of the city from the top. Although we didn’t stay until sunset, we could only imagine how captivating the sunsets from the top would be.

The people

A city is ultimately defined by its people. And the people of Bologna are as vibrant as its history. 

My Airbnb host was an American lady who married an Italian and settled down here. She and her young daughter gave me a warm welcome and made sure I was comfortable. In the same house, I met a lady from the Czech Republic who was travelling with her daughter and a guy from France who was studying in Bologna. I ended up talking to them late into the evening. The next day I went hiking with the lady and her daughter.

Everyone I encountered during my journey was friendly and helpful. Most people spoke enough English for at least basic communication.

The vibe

Streets of Bologona

Bologna is nicknamed “La Rossa” (“The Red”). The left leaning roots run deep. As far as the middle ages, Bologna rebelled to remain an independent “commune” during the Holy Roman empire. Through the decades, it continued to resist fascism and kept the Italian Communist Party in power long after WWII. As you walk around the city, graffiti showing “Smash Capitalism” or street art demonstrating communist symbols is not uncommon to come across. 

Bologna reminded me of my own hometown, Kolkata (India) where intellectual debates, thoughtful conversations on societal issues, and speaking up for what you believe in are highly encouraged.

On a lighter note, you can feel the city’s heart beating even late into the night. From outdoor movie nights at the main Piazza to students hitting up restaurants & bars late night (even on weekdays), student life indeed shapes much of Bologna’s culture.

Could I live here?

And finally, whenever I visit a city I ask myself if I could live there. While Florence makes you gasp with awe at artistic creations, you are constantly walking among a swath of tourists. The Tuscan countryside lets you slow down and experience “dolche far niente” but the Tuscan towns are almost too perfect and idyllic. It feels like you are in a dream, walking through history but at some point, I would like to come out of the dream to a more ordinary life. Bologna offers just that. 

In Bologna historic charm blends with modern-day conveniences seamlessly. The city inspires you to read, think, and have fun all at once! 

The vibe cuts right through the city. You don’t have to “go” anywhere in particular to experience its vibe. You just have to show up at Bologna and let the city run its magic on you.

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Pro tips

Nicole’s Airbnb

The view from my Airbnb’s balcony

After reading this article, if you are planning to visit Bologna and experience its vibe, here are some tips:

  • Restaurants are plenty but some of the popular ones can be fully booked even on a weekday afternoon. I reserved a table at Ristorante Grassilli by contacting them beforehand via Facebook Messenger. A lot of walk-ins were turned away because all tables were reserved.
  • If you are looking for a place to stay, I couldn’t recommend Nicole’s Airbnb enough (pictures above). It’s a charming house featuring a balcony with a great view.
  • Download the TaxiClick Easy app to make your life easier, especially if you need a late-night cab ride.
  • If you aren’t travelling to Modena or Parma, then Bologna is a great place to buy high-quality Balsamic vinegar, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and cured meats, all of which you can most likely bring back home with you!
Ban Chiang Udon Thani

A 5000-year-old culture thrives in Ban Chiang village at Udon Thani, Thailand

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Red-painted pots, indigo-dyed hand-woven clothes, and elaborate welcome ceremonies – a 5000-year-old culture thrives in Udon Thani, Thailand.

I had the opportunity to delve into this unique culture thanks to a showcase trip organised by the Thailand Village Academy. Along with four other professional bloggers, I flew down to Bangkok and then to Udon Thani to explore this 5000-year-old community and their traditions.

Ban Chiang, located in the northeast of Thailand, is inhabited by the Tai Puan people. Tai Puan is a Buddhist Tai-Lao ethnic group that migrated from what is today southern China and by the 13th century had settled in Laos. The common belief is that they migrated from Laos to northeast Thailand back in the days.

As soon as you arrive at Ban Chiang, you are greeted with a soothing Tai Puan dance. The movements are gentle and gracious. The women are dressed in beautiful traditional blue attires which are woven by hand and dyed with indigo and wear a warm smile on their faces.


The welcome dance was proceeded by a packed itinerary. Ban Chiang, after all, has so much to offer and we had only one day to catch it all! Highlights of this trip are detailed below.

The famous red-painted pottery of Ban Chiang

In 1966, Steve Young, a political science student at Harvard College, was living in Ban Chiang and conducting interviews for his senior honors thesis. One day, while walking with his assistant, Young tripped over a root of a kapok tree and fell on his face in the dirt path. He found small and medium-sized pottery jars. A series of events followed and the first formal scientific excavation in 1967, leading to the discovery of several skeletons, bronze grave gifts and artifacts. The Ban Chiang culture is the earliest known Bronze Age site in Southeast Asia.

Due to the historical significance, the site was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992.
The Ban Chiang National Museum is perhaps the best way to understand Ban Chiang’s historical significance and trace the evolution of pottery over time.

Red painted pottery of Ban Chiang

Red painted pottery of Ban Chiang

About 5000 years ago, black pots with ringfoot decorated with cardmarked, impressed designs were used. Approximately 2500 – 3000 years ago, red designs on buff pottery were created. Over time, the Tai Puan people created red pots with red-painted designs and these became the trademark of Ban Chiang.

The red-painted pottery was of immense historical significance. In fact, an investigation launched into various museums revealed that many pieces were smuggled illegally out of Thailand. You can read all about it in this New York Times report.

Infant burial jars

Infant burial jars of prehistoric times

In fact, the popularity of red-painted pottery is not a recent phenomenon. In pre-historic times, pots and jars were used for infant burial! Yes, it’s true and you can read all about it in my other article.

If you want to try your hand at making some of the beautiful pottery yourself, head over to Ban Chiang Pottery and Painting Group for a workshop. Not only can you learn from the masters, but you can also paint some pots and carry them back as a souvenir!

My failed attempt at painting the pots vs how its supposed to look

Indigo-dyed hand-woven mat-mee print clothes

I had seen them in numerous pictures before – the beautiful blue clothes with a special type of print. It makes anyone look effortlessly fabulous. In Ban Chiang, I had the opportunity to witness the creation of this print!

Mat mee print clothes of Ban Chiang

Mat mee print clothes of Ban Chiang

Back in the days, the locals used to make hand-woven indigo-dyed traditional clothes for their own use. They became immensely popular due to their unique look – shades of blue achieved from indigo dyeing and intricate designs (mat mee print). Indigo is widely available along the Songkhram River and hence the provinces along the river (including Udon Thani) have made indigo an essential part of their lifestyle.

We got a taste of this weaving and dyeing process at the Ban Chiang Indigo Dye Weaving Learning Center. As you enter the area, you pass by beautiful women weaving the fabric by hand, efficiently and yet seemingly effortlessly. They smile as we pass by and click a few pictures along the way.

Our simple project was to tie-dye a handkerchief. Of course, with zero artistic skills whatsoever, this task proved to be anything but simple to me.

At first, you are given a paper full of designs to choose from. Once you pick the design, you follow the drawing step by step and fold the fabric accordingly. Once folded, tie it tightly with a piece of ribbon to ensure the folds are in place. Next step is to dip the cloth in a bucket of indigo dye, allowed to soak and then dry for a few hours.

Indigo dyeing process

Indigo dyeing process

While I gave up on my own handkerchief midway, one of the locals was kind enough to make one on my behalf and passed it to me as a souvenir.

On my way out, I couldn’t help but try on a scarf with the mat mee print. It was so beautiful!

“Do you know how you can tell if it’s handmade or not?” – one of the local women asked me. I shook my head and looked to her for an answer.

“Check both sides of the cloth. If both sides have design then it’s handmade and if one side has design, it’s most likely machine-made!” – she responded.

Calling back our spirits through an elaborate welcome ceremony

Bai Sri Su kwan, the welcome ceremony we took part in, is a longstanding tradition in Southeast Asia, especially in Thailand and Laos.

The main purpose of the ceremony is the binding of the personal spirits to the person. Su-kwan may be interpreted as “the invitation of the kwan” or “the calling of the kwan.” The kwan are 32 spirits believed to watch over the human body’s 32 organs and are considered to constitute a person’s spiritual essence.

According to Buddhist traditions, throughout a person’s life, the kwan may wander, sometimes going very far from the person’s body. Therefore, it is important to call the kwan back to the person’s body.

Bari Sri Su Kwan Ceremony Ban Chiang

Bari Sri Su Kwan ceremony

Back in Ban Chiang, all of us gathered in a large area. An older man sat at the centre of the circle around a decorative centrepiece and lead the ceremony. The main item required is the centrepiece – a metal bowl piled high with cones of banana leaves and flanked with marigold flowers, white string, candles, and incense. Other items include a variety of food and drink – rice cakes, sweet pastries, boiled chicken, liquor, eggs and sticky rice. Eggs and rice are symbolic of fertility and prosperity. The white string is spread across all the participants of the ceremony, the individuals sitting on the outer side of the gathering holding on to the thread.

The leader of the ceremony chanted sometimes in a hushed voice and sometimes in a loud tone, calling on the spirits to cease wandering and return to the bodies of those present. At the end of the ceremony, a thread is tied on the wrists of the guests.

It was a special tradition, the kind where despite not fathoming the words, our souls felt calm by the end of the ceremony. Traditions at the end of the day are what makes each community special.

The famous Thai hospitality

Delicious food at Ban Chiang

Delicious food at Ban Chiang

Alas, we cannot talk about Thailand and not mention a word about theis hospitality. While each tradition of Ban Chiang culture is unique, the famous Thai hospitality is what will truly leave the deepest impact on you. Every minute you can feel the warmth and the love of the locals. The smiling faces, the warm hugs, and the endless generosity of the Thai people are what makes travellers return to Thailand time and again.

How to get to Ban Chiang

Ban Chiang is located in Udon Thani which boasts its own airport. From Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket and several other cities, you can take a direct domestic flight to Udon Thani. You can also take bus or train from Bangkok to Ban Chiang.

Ban Chiang is about 50km east of the city of Udon Thani. To reach and explore Ban Chiang, it’s best to hire a car for a day as public transport options are limited. You might be able to get a taxi to reach Ban Chiang but it would most likely limit your options to move around within Ban Chiang for the rest of the days. If you are visiting on a guided tour, the agency, of course, will take care of your transport.

Few things to note

Disclaimer: This trip was made possible by the Thailand Village Academy. However, all opinions and views are solely mine and may not reflect the organizer’s views. This post does NOT contain any affiliate links (I do NOT get paid for any visits or bookings) but I highly encourage travellers to explore this unique historic community.

The Thai village where infants were buried in stunning red-painted clay pots

The Thai village where infants were buried in stunning red-painted clay pots

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About 600km from the bustling city of Bangkok, in the northern district of Udon Thani, lies Ban Chiang village.

Ban Chiang gained popularity due to its attractive red painted pottery and was awarded the status of a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1992.

Red painted pottery of Ban Chiang

Famous red-painted pottery of Ban Chiang

Turns out, the popularity of the red-painted pottery is not a recent phenomenon. In fact, red-painted pottery was so common, they were often used for infant burial.

The burial practice of Ban Chiang community

Pottery evolved over time

Archaeologists have identified three distinct periods in the history of Ban Chiang: the Early Period, the Middle Period and the Late Period.

The burial practice in prehistoric times comprised of burying the corpse with a variety of offerings, indicating a belief in life after death.

The burial practice of Ban Chiang culture 5,600 – 3,000 years ago can be divided into 3 types:

  • Supine or extended burial with one or more pottery containing food places at the foot of the head of the grave
  • Flexed burial which was very rare
  • Jar burial, for certain infants

The pottery used for burial in the Early Period of Ban Chiang culture was decorated with black colour paste and cardmarked incised designs. In the Middle Period, white pottery decorated with cardmarked design was the preferred choice. In the Late Period, buff pottery decorated with the famous red-painted designs were commonly used. Towards the end of this period, red burnished pots became the most common grave offering pots. In addition, certain child burials contained glass beads and clay rollers.

Infants ceased to be buried in pots after the Early Period but children continued to receive special burial treatment throughout the Ban Chiang tradition.

Infant burial jars

Infant burial jars of prehistoric times

All of this information I acquired while exploring the National Museum of Ban Chiang. The director of the museum herself took on the responsibility of showing us around.

The burial jars caught my curiosity and I asked her why infants were buried in jars.

“Because they fit the size.” – she simply replied!

Perhaps, back in the days, they found it convenient to simply put the bones of the children in a small pot and bury them beside their relatives?

Nearly all infants buried in jars were just a few weeks old. Did they just die young (due to lack of healthcare facilities and hygiene) or was infant infanticide practised? We will never know!

Archaeologists have done a stunning job in uncovering fascinating information about this old civilization but so much work is yet to be done, so many questions remain answered.

Skeletons from prehistoric times

Skeletons from prehistoric times found in Ban Chiang

“Are archaeologists still digging up this area?” – I asked the guide.

“Not right now, no. Funds are limited… but also every time we dig up a site, we are also ruining the sanctity of the site.” – she responded.

Like everything else in the world, it’s a fine balance.

Important information for travellers

Ban Chiang National Museum is a wonderful way to explore the ancient way of life of the Tai Puan people and understand the progress of human civilisation. Ban Chiang justly deserves its UNESCO World Heritage site title. Many fascinating stories can be found here and perhaps many more are waiting to be discovered by archaeologists.

From Udon Thani town, the total distance is around 55 km. It is probably a good idea to hire a car or a taxi from Udon Thani airport to get here.

Visiting Hours: Daily from 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Admission Fee : THB 30 for Thai / THB 150 for foreigners

For more information, contact 0 4220 4340

Siem Reap kids

The incredible story of a tuk-tuk driver on a mission to teach English to Cambodian kids

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At first glance, Kim Heak appears to be just another tuk-tuk (auto rickshaw) driver in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Over the last decade, Siem Reap has rapidly grown into an exotic destination for cultural tourism, courtesy of the famous temples of Angkor, especially Angkor Wat.

At the lack of convenient public transportation, numerous locals have taken up the opportunity to provide transportation services to this growing influx of tourists. Kim Heak is one of them but he is also so much more. He is the host of an adorable homestay, a guide, and a man on a mission to teach English to about 70 odd village kids for free. His aim is to empower them to lead a better life by providing them with the same opportunities that the city kids are offered.

I encountered Kim when looking for a homestay in Siem Reap, hoping to avoid the crowds of Pub Street and looking to experience the true Khmer lifestyle. About two weeks before my trip to Siem Reap, I suddenly remembered that I was yet to book accommodation. I messaged him late at night while browsing through a website (Homestay.com) and his prompt and warm response convinced me that I needed to look no further.

About two weeks later, I arrived at Siem Reap and was greeted by a smiling face at the airport. Kim welcomed me, picked up my bag, and took me to his tuk-tuk (a traditional auto-rickshaw). We drove through the streets of Siem Reap and entered Chrey village, where his homestay is located.

Away from the crowds of Pub Street

Most travellers visit Siem Reap with the aim of touring Angkor Wat, which is undeniably a magnificent sight. Almost inevitably, they decide to stay in a hotel or hostel around Pub Street, the most touristy and happening area in Siem Reap. While Pub Street and its surrounding areas are filled with bars, cafes, restaurants, hostels and hotels, the sheer amount of commercialisation masks the true characteristics of a regular Cambodian lifestyle.

Chrey village is nothing like Pub Street. Quite the opposite in fact. It’s a small village about 20-25 mins from the city centre. The houses here resemble typical village houses found in most developing economies around Asia. The roads are dusty and there are only a few local shops around the village. Kids run around the village freely as do a bunch of dogs who also consider it their neighbourhood.

This, I believe, is how the majority of Cambodians live, even today.

As Kim drives by,  passers-by wave at him. Everyone seems to know him. Everyone seems to know everyone in this village.

As soon as I arrive at Kim’s place, I am greeted by 3 smiling kids who jump around happily. The kids offer me some raw mango that they were casually munching on. I decide to take my luggage to my room after finishing the mangoes.

Life is tough. Life is simple.

My homestay in Chrey village

My room is much bigger than I expected. It’s strangely clean and modern given the surrounding areas. The bed is even decorated with flower petals.

My room is bigger than expected

As I walk out and take a look at Kim and his family’s hut which is as primitive as it can be, I am suddenly drowned in a strong sense of guilt. Then, I play a quick reasoning game with myself. I convince myself that I’m helping their family by staying in this room and opting for their services. This is their source of livelihood.

Since it’s already evening, I decide to take a walk around the village and not venture too far. Two of Kim’s kids join me on the walk. They may speak only a few words of English but their passion for communicating with me is endless. They continue to try with the few words they know.

The girl is relatively more mature than her younger brother. The young boy is joyful and naughty. He would run ahead of us and then lie down on the dusty road and we would have to pull him up and drag him along. He loved this game. The girl was happy to just hold my hand and walk with me. Occasionally, she would kiss my hand and happily jump around.

In the absence of street lights, I relied on these young kids to bring me back to their place. They did not disappoint.

The rest of the evening was spent with Kim and his friends, who were building a shed beside the house. Some of them seemed hard at work while some others (including myself) devoured the fresh spring rolls given to us.

Home cooked Khmer food

A plate full of traditional Khmer food completed the day and I decided to hit the bed.

Life may not be easy here but it is simple. The bonds between a family and a community are strong. With the help of each other, they make the best out of their lives. Their difficulties seem to ease up when they gather every evening and hang out over some local food and drinks. From my bed, I could hear the chatter and the following laughter. This supportive community keeps them happy despite their day-to-day struggles. It’s what keeps them going.

‘I never brought my family to this waterfall’

The waterfall is unimpressive but provides much-needed respite from the heat

The next day Kim takes me to a waterfall and a temple far far away. We drive in his tuk-tuk for a while and from a certain point, we switch to a motorbike as the tuk-tuk is not suitable for the upcoming road. As we settle down at a restaurant after a dip in the waterfall, Kim opens up about his life.

I ask him about his English school, why he started it and how he runs it.

“I never had the opportunity to learn English while growing up. I did not attend a school in the city. I did not get the same jobs as the city kids. I want a better future for the children in my village.” – Kim tells me.

I wonder how the kids afford the English school. He informs me that the school is free. He does not charge anything to the kids. About 70+ kids from the nearby villages come to his school.

 

Kim tells me about his school over a plate of Fish Amok

Food is served and over a delicious plate of Fish Amok, we discuss how he runs his school. He converted one of the rooms in the house into a mini school. He admits that he does not earn much but he tries to save as much as possible and uses the resources to buy stationery as well as organise school trips for the kids.

“Who teaches them English?” – I ask curiously as Kim seems to be busy with his duties as a homestay host and as a tour guide.

“There is a girl from the nearby village who I know, usually she comes to teach. A few years earlier, there was a foreigner who travelled to Siem Reap and stayed at my house. He decided to stay back in Siem Reap for a while. Often, he volunteers and teaches the kids as well. Sometimes other travellers volunteer too.” – Kim continues.

“I want to buy a computer and teach the children how to use it..but no money…may be someday..” – He says.

Lunch is coming to an end and he shows me some pictures he snapped of me earlier in the day. I thank him and ask if his family visits the waterfall often. It seems to be a good escape from the scorching heat of Siem Reap.

“I never brought my family to the waterfall” – Kim replies with a hint of sadness in his voice. He proceeds to inform me that they need a car to visit the waterfall as the whole family would not fit on the motorbike. Hiring a car for a day is too expensive. He can’t afford it.

What struck me right then and there is the daily sacrifice he makes. He can actually afford to hire a car for a day but he chooses to spend that money on his school instead. What’s better is that he does not even see it as a sacrifice. He happily does it. To him, it seems perfectly natural.

I am suddenly filled with an enormous amount of respect for him. After all, these are the kind of human beings that struggle against all odds to help the society. They happily make sacrifices on a daily basis, hoping that their sacrifices can uplift others and guide them towards a happier life.

Chinese New Year celebration in a Khmer village

That night I came home to the sight of a pig being roasted, as preparation for Chinese New Year. Part of his family traces back to a Chinese lineage, Kim tells me. “Tomorrow lots of people will come over to our house to celebrate. You are welcome to join.”

Pig being roasted at the backyard

The pig is being roasted at the backyard, not in the most sanitary environment, I must admit. After a few hours, they hang the pig on a stick and place the stick under a shed. The shed covers it from the top but it remains exposed to open air from all other angles. The pig is to reside there for the night and the following day, they will roast the pig again, before serving it to guests.

The pig hanging here is somehow a funny sight

The sight of the pig hanging on the stick, somehow, was a hilarious sight. I joke about it while hanging out with Kim and his family around a small table, in the courtyard. Most of his family doesn’t speak English but each of them are delighted to meet me. Kim, being the kind-hearted host he is, takes up the task of translating the important parts of the conversation to English, to make me feel welcome.

One of the elders suddenly asks me if I know of a certain Hindi (Bollywood song). I reply in the negative but offer to play some good Bollywood music for him instead. He is super excited. As I play a famous Hindi song, he suddenly stands up and starts casually dancing to the beats.

Laughter ensues. Happiness is in the air. Time stands still. Suddenly, language is no longer a barrier. Here, in an unknown tiny village in Cambodia, an Indian girl celebrates Chinese New Year with a Khmer family while listening to Hindi music. These are the moments that travellers like me live for.

Kim was not only an excellent tour guide but a thoughtful host. He made sure I feel part of his family. He gave me a taste of the joys and sorrows of their daily life and for this, I am forever grateful.

Meeting the kids and saying goodbye

Over the next two days, Kim showed me the famous temples of Angkor, the Phare Circus (which I highly recommend), Pub Street and the nearby fishing village. During the Chinese New Year, the kids of his school were also given holidays. On the last day, I finally had the opportunity to meet them.

The kids at school

As I handed out chocolates to them after their English lesson, each of them smiled and thanked me. They ran around playfully and curiously looked at me and the other fellow travellers who were staying in Kim’s homestay.

Saying goodbye is never easy but I took solace in knowing that I now have another group of people who I can consider my family, people who will always welcome me back with open arms.

A few passing thoughts

Cambodia, once famous for the glorious Khmer empire, today, is a country torn apart by civil war. It is also a country that shows tremendous promise.

It’s a country where you not only witness the after-effects of civil war up close but also come across magnificent people who are dedicating their lives to rebuilding the economy, the society and the country.

I have never really donated large amounts of money to charities, especially since it’s hard to determine the legitimate ones and trace the impact of the donation. But here, you have a chance to contribute to the education of the kids on a first-hand basis. You are welcome to buy them books, stationery, and anything else that might be useful. You can stay with Kim and teach the kids if you like. You can see the impact of your contributions. You can empower these kids with education and when they grow up, hopefully, they can contribute towards the development of the country.

This is a great time to visit Cambodia. You not only get to appreciate the beauty of Angkor Wat but the resilience and the warmth of the Cambodian people.

Cambodians won’t just welcome you to their homes. They will open their hearts to you. If you dare to venture beyond the comforts of the usual tourist areas, you might just form an unforgettable connection and become part of a local family.

After all, isn’t that what travel is all about? As the wise Anthony Bourdain once said, “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you, it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”

Note for travellers:

You can contact Kim at kimheak.horm@yahoo.com or book his homestay via homestay.com. It is worth noting that there is an additional charge for using air conditioning in the room but I think the fan is usually sufficient.

Sunset over Bai Tu Long Bay

The magic of Ha Long Bay- my first encounter with Vietnam

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Ha Long Bay literally translates into the bay of descending dragons. The first time I read about Ha Long Bay was about 6 years ago. I saw a picture of the unearthly limestone karsts blasting out of the emerald green water and I knew this has to go on my bucket list.

Fast forward to 2018, I woke up one day and decided, this is the year I start ticking off items from my bucket list, rather than lengthening the list. Of course, I was aware of my hectic schedule that allows only two weeks of annual leave but I would not let that deter me. I searched through my calendar for a suitable time, applied for leave and booked my flight to Hanoi, from where I would go to Ha Long Bay.

Choosing a cruise for Ha Long Bay is the ultimate nightmare

I decided that with my time constraints, I could do a 2D 1N cruise on Ha Long Bay. The day trips were way too short for my taste and I did not have enough time to do the 3D trip. However, I also read that Ha Long Bay is terribly overcrowded and there is a quieter alternative- Bai Tu Long Bay.

Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay, although crowded, is the UNESCO heritage site that is known to be the most beautiful one but Bai Tu Long Bay is the more secluded and peaceful one. Thus began my search for the perfect cruise which would hopefully cover both the bays. When I searched online, I was greeted with a number of tour operators who offer different itineraries and belong to separate price range.

From my research, here is what I learnt: if you can afford it, go for a mid-range cruise. My all-inclusive package of Vega tours for 2D1N cost me 120 USD. Make sure you read the itinerary carefully, many cruises are party cruises which will blast music throughout the evening. If you want your peace and quiet, choose one accordingly. Not many cruises go to Bai Tu Long Bay. If you want to visit it, make sure the itinerary explicitly mentions it. I found Vega cruises to one of the rare options that do cover both Bai Tu Long Bay and Ha Long Bay. After a few emails back and forth, I booked my tour and anxiously waited for the date to arrive.

Hanoi to Ha Long Bay

I’m not going to go into details of my arrival at Hanoi since that deserves a separate chapter altogether but instead, let’s start with my first day of the Ha Long Bay tour. A van from Vega Tour picked me up from the hostel around 7.30-8am and about 13 other people joined us.

Ha Long Bay cruise

Small boats to transfer to our big boat

We travelled for about 3-4 hours before reaching the Ha Long Bay harbour and boarding our cruise/ Chinese junk. Our guide was an extremely friendly Vietnamese man who introduced himself as well encouraged us to mingle among ourselves.

Day 1: Welcome to Bai Tu Long Bay

We sat down for lunch and our guide announced: “Most boats take the turn towards Ha Long Bay but we will continue our journey to the quieter part of Bai Tu Long Bay where we can later go kayaking.”

As the first limestone karst came into my sight, I could barely contain my excitement. I got up from my lunch table and peeked through the window, with the fork still in my hand. Here I was, finally, after 5 years of daydreaming about this place.

Bai Tu Long Bay

After our lunch, we were transferred to a smaller boat which took us along the thousands of islets and dropped us of at the entrance of a cave. Like many caves in Vietnam, this cave was filled with shiny white stalagmites, some of which also make a musical sound if you hit it with a stick at certain angles! We finally got out of the cave and transferred to kayaks.

Limestone caves in Ha Long Bay

Limestone caves

Sunset over Bai Tu Long Bay

We were on a 2 person kayak and I was with my friend and travel buddy, Lisa. The next hour was almost comical as we kept trying to find our coordinated rhythm and I kept splashing a lot of water on her in the process! Nevertheless, as we paddled over the emerald water and crossed the giant limestone karsts at every turn, I almost couldn’t help but wonder how these surreal islets could have been naturally created without any human intervention.

Busy in my thoughts, I almost didn’t notice it was time for sunset. Once I did, we paddled to an area that has an unobstructed view to the sunset and simply laid down our paddles.

Sunset over Bai Tu Long Bay

Sunset over Bai Tu Long Bay

I stared in dismay as the golden ball slowly started descending over the conical peaks and towers of the islets. The sky changed colours and it was truly a magical moment. The fact that we were sitting on a thin kayak, right on top of the same water that reflected the sunset colours, somehow made the moment more special.

These are the moments that take our breath away and transport us to a different world. These are the moments that make us believe in magic. These are the moments that make life worth living.

As the sun fully descended behind the peaks, we slowly paddled back along a floating village and onwards to our boat to rest for the evening.

A failed attempt at making Vietnamese spring rolls

Before we proceeded to dinner, our tour guide organized a quick cooking lesson for us, just what I always dreaded! As much as I love food, I dread the process of making it. Nevertheless, I put on my gloves and stood there trying to imitate his moves. Turns out, I wasn’t the only one.

Vietnamese spring roll making class

Vietnamese spring roll making class

Another member of our group asked, “Is this our dinner?” and when I responded in negative, he was relieved!

Although they had given us all the ingredients and we only had to wrap everything together and make a spring roll, I failed, of course! My spring rolls were all over the place but I ate them anyway and they were absolutely fresh and delicious. Vietnamese food, after all, is one of the best cuisines in the world.

Dinner is a lengthy affair

I’m convinced that all the money we paid was for our meals. There were endless dishes, each more delicious than the next. We sat across a lovely French couple and enjoyed a lengthy dinner coupled with good conversation, laughter, and even some magic tricks organized by our tour guide.

We were to wake up at 6 am the following day and hence we decided to call it a night. I couldn’t help but wonder what the moon looks like from this part of the world. I snuck out to the top deck of our cruise to enjoy a few moments in solitude.

It would have been pitch dark had it not been for the full moon shining it’s bright white light all over the bay. I enjoyed the pin-drop silence and gazed at the moon that had conveniently found a gap in the peak of an islet and lay exactly in that gap. Indeed, nature offers endless beauty, if you take out a minute to notice it.

Day 2: Ha Long Bay and Surprise Cave

I had a blissful sleep and even after I opened my eyes, I lay in bed admiring the gorgeous structures all around me. The feeling of waking up to the magic of Ha Long Bay can not be described in words. If not for anything else, just for this feeling alone, you should book an overnight trip to Ha Long Bay.

Waking up in Ha Long Bay

Waking up in Ha Long Bay

Finally, I got up and clicked a few pictures before we were transferred to the smaller boat to visit Song Sut (Surprise) cave. Song Sut cave is one of the largest caves of Ha Long Bay and has been commercialized quite a bit for the tourists. However, it still remains a sight worth a visit.

On top of the world in Titop island

Most cruises don’t cover Titop island but this may just be the best part of Ha Long Bay. A tiny island with a small beach, Titop is known for the short hike that provides a spectacular 360-degree view of all the three bays- Ha Long Bay, Bai Tu Long Bay, and Lan Ha Bay.

With my never-to-recover ankle injury, I wondered if I would be able to climb the 340 odd steps without damaging my ankle too much but it was easier than I expected as there are well-built steps throughout. The peak is crowded for sure but the view is worth everything. The pictures speak for themselves.

Here is a suggestion, if your itinerary does not include Titop island, choose another tour!

Goodbyes and pictures

Titop island was our last stop in Ha Long Bay. For the next hour or so, we cruised along the most scenic routes of Ha Long Bay to witness the famous formations like the fighting cocks, the dog stone and many more. Some of the areas truly seem to be out of a Hollywood movie set and despite the hundred other boats, there is a strange serenity here.

Finally, we settled down for our last meal and I waved goodbye to this place that will always hold a special place in my heart. We clicked a few group pictures as the boat reached the harbour, thus marking the end of this beautiful journey.

Group picture!

I had successfully ticked off this item from my bucket list and Ha Long Bay was everything I dreamt it would be and so much more.

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Singapore skyline from the top

Singapore- the Asian miracle, welcome to the future

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A tiny red dot on a map which was a fishing village 30-40 years ago, Singapore, today boasts of being the 3rd richest country on earth (according to GDP per capita-PPP).

Stepping into Singapore is like stepping into the future– 30 years ahead perhaps. In short, Singapore is the Asian miracle that we all must witness at least once.

Singapore skyline from the top

Innovative skyscrapers and beautiful trees adorn the squeaky-clean streets. The architectural marvel known as Marina Bay Sands, a three-towered hotel connected by a boat shaped infinity pool on the roof, overlooks the whole city.

Gardens by the Bay

Supertrees at Gardens by the Bay

An entire man-made forest conserves flora and fauna from all over the world and 18 “Supertrees” lead the way to environmental sustainability by generating solar power and collecting rain water.

If these were not enough, marvellous exhibitions like “Human+, the future of our species”, where you can speak to an actual Humanoid (human+robot), are displayed all over the city.

Meet Nadine, the humanoid made in Singapore

Meet Nadine, the humanoid made in Singapore

Welcome to Singapore, welcome to the future

Stunning overview of Singapore captured by Swati from @hueilicious

Have you ever visited a night safari before? Riding a vehicle through the forest to observe the nocturnal animals? If not, now is your chance.

How about a theatre shaped like the famous fruit Durian? Walk past Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay and admire the durian spikes on this gorgeous structure. If you are willing to spend a bit, watch a show here, from brilliant Flamenco dances to Chinese opera, art and culture thrives right at the heart of the city.

Did you ever wish to visit one of the world’s largest aquariums and dine in the presence of Manta rays? The S.E.A Aquarium just made your dream come true.

Ever dreamt of an entire stretch of land dedicated to nightlife? Imagine LKF in Hong Kong but bigger and better! Plus, it’s by the river! Welcome to Clarke Quay.

Never got the chance to visit China or India? No problem, get a taste of them in Chinatown and Little India. If you are adventurous enough, try the crocodile meat at Chinatown!

Want to see how the old and the new can co-exist beautifully within walking distance? Walk from the old shop houses of Bugis or Boat Quay to the skyscrapers at Raffles Place.

shophouses in Bugis

shophouses in Bugis

 

Skyscrapers in Raffles Place

Skyscrapers in Raffles Place

However, when I call Singapore the Asian miracle, I do not just refer to these. Some cities are great to visit but when you ask yourself, “Could I live here?”, you often find the answer in negative.

Singapore is the miracle country because despite being barely 50 years old, without any natural resources, it has achieved some of the highest standards in quality of life.

How is life in Singapore?

What makes Singapore so futuristic is not just these tourist spots but the convenience it provides on a day-to-day basis.

Fried carrot cake- a typical Singaporean dish

Fried carrot cake- a typical Singaporean dish

You can reach anywhere in the country in 20 minutes via cab. Food is literally everywhere and quite cheap as compared to any other developed nation. In fact, you can have a perfect culinary adventure in Singapore too.

Public transport is efficient, there is almost zero congestion on the roads even during rush hours and the whole city is beautifully green.

Parks of Singapore (Sungei Buloh)

Not only can you see the blue sky and breathe fresh air, you can also find parks all around the country. Every road is covered by trees on both sides, thus providing some respite from the tropical heat.

There are a few beaches as well and you can even live by the beach for a reasonable price. Moreover, Singapore continues to remain one of the safest countries on earth, where we even leave our house doors unlocked half the time.

Beach of lazarus island

Beach of lazarus island

However, the best part of Singapore is not its convenience. It’s the unique racial harmony that this tiny nation has managed to achieve. A simple stroll around Singapore and you can easily find people from various races, religions and nations, mingling and living peacefully.

Singapore officially recognizes three major communities, Chinese Singaporeans, Malay Singaporeans and Indian Tamil Singaporeans and the government makes it a priority to promote harmony among all of them. Except these, no matter where in the world you are from, not only will you be accepted in Singapore’s society, you will most likely discover people from your own country as well.

Many countries claim to be multi-cultural but in most societies people from different communities just live beside each other, rather than living with each other. They call their societies progressive but there are instances of racial hatred almost on a daily basis.

It would be stupid to claim that Singapore has achieved the perfect racial harmony but if there is one country that is way ahead of most others in this respect, it is Singapore. You have to live here to believe it.

Yes, there are racial stereotypes and you will probably have your own circle of friends who belong to the same community. However, there is almost no real racial hatred and you will also become friends with people from other communities and other nations, if you are open to it.

Progressive government and why it matters

Now the question is, how did this miracle happen? A city state with almost zero natural resources not only became one of the financial centres of the world but also managed to become one of the most livable places on the planet.

The answer is progressive stable government and actions that truly matter.

In 1965, when Singapore became an independent nation, its prospects were dim. However along the hundreds of disadvantages, Singapore had a few advantages like strategic location for trade.

Lee Kuan Yew, Singapore’s first (and most revered) prime minister knew how to use these advantages. He opened up the economy for trade and foreign investment. Low tax rates combined with other business policies attracted a swarm of multinationals to this island.

Lee Kuan Yew ensured the government remains corruption-free by rewarding the employees with high monetary compensation. As the country began to prosper, the citizens did not see any need for a new government.

A stable government could now plan long term policies that lead to sustainable growth. The government also remains a big supporter of progressive ideas, be it in terms of automation or eco-friendly products.

The government also recognised that promoting racial harmony is the only way forward and dedicates significant amount of resources for the same. All religions and communities are given equal importance and freedom.

Chinese gardens

Influence of Chinese culture

 

Singapore celebrates Diwali (an Indian festival)

Singapore celebrates Diwali (an Indian festival)

The result? Singapore- as we see it today! Here are some examples of the hard decisions and their effects.

Results of government policies

Despite being a tiny city with limited land area, due to the strict price control of real estate, HDBs (public housing) continue to remain affordable. The business district is located at the centre and most areas are well-connected to the central business district.

As mentioned earlier, food is extremely affordable and is available literally everywhere. Every food court (hawker center) has a variety of different cuisines to choose from.

food

This is no coincidence. A large amount of resources were dedicated to urban planning to ensure convenience of the residents. By law, every public housing community must have a hawker center nearby, among other facilities.

Cars are expensive to buy and maintain. While some may perceive this as an inconvenience, it is this very policy that prevents congestion on the roads of Singapore, even during peak hours. Public transport is highly developed and connects every corner of the city to ensure people have to rely the least on private transportation.

Overall, the government continues to strive to improve the lifestyle of its residents and embraces the future with open arms, rather than shying away from it.

Is it all rosy though?

What Singapore gained in terms of convenience, safety and prosperity, came with a cost. The government’s policies continue to remain conservative in many areas.

The LGBT community is not recognized, political opinions are restricted in certain ways and the punishments remain harsh. While the young generation craves for freedom in these aspects, they perhaps often don’t value the lifestyle they enjoy because they haven’t seen otherwise.

A common stereotype is that Singaporeans love to complain. Only, in this case, it is true. They complain because they don’t compare their lifestyle with residents of other south-east asian countries. They complain because they compare their lifestyle in the past to their current lifestyle.

Another disadvantage of being a tiny island nation is that its residents are easily bored. There is no countryside. There are no weekend getaways within the country. Weekend getaways are often in Malaysia.

Pulau Besar

Pulau Besar- a beautiful island in Malaysia

You don’t enjoy 4 different seasons either and if you don’t venture out of the country frequently, you may eventually find your lifestyle dull.

At the end of the day, unbound safety, unlimited convenience and prosperity often comes at small costs. It is up to an individual to decide whether the costs are worth the benefits or not.

The Asian miracle

Whichever side you choose, everyone has to agree that no country has achieved such enormous and sustainable holistic growth in 30 years like Singapore.

An expat community thrives in Keppel Bay

An expat community thrives in Keppel Bay

Today, not only do people from different parts of Asia want to move to Singapore, but a significant number of people from all over the world want to migrate here.

This is what makes Singapore the Asian miracle that everyone must witness once. The future lies here. Come and see it, to believe it.

 

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Sai Kung- the smell of happiness

Sai Kung- the smell of happiness

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It smelled of sea, it smelled of fresh fish, it smelled of happy dogs and even happier people. The moment I got off the bus at Sai Kung, I was suddenly transported from the busy city life of Hong Kong, to a place where life seemed easy and happy. At once, I fell in love with the vibe of Sai Kung.

As mentioned in my last article about Hong Kong’s hidden gems, located in the new territories, Sai Kung can easily be termed as the locals’ secret of Hong Kong. Not too many tourists or even travellers venture all the way here but the ones who do, discover a completely different side of Hong Kong.

The ferry pier in Sai kung

The ferry pier in Sai kung

The roads are not sloping upwards anymore, the windows of the houses are bigger than a small hole and instead of shooting to the sky, the buildings are much more down to the earth.

People are not rushing off past one another, instead, they are merrily strolling by the wonderful sea side. Families are busy playing with their pets or their children and a bunch of school kids are presenting a cute little dance performance.

What’s more, at every step, a new aroma entices your senses. At first, it’s the fresh fish! I quickly walk over to the railing beside ferry pier to discover its source and find something unique. They are selling fish directly from their boats! Oh yes, the boat is floating in the water along with the fisherman while the locals gather near the railing. Due to the major height difference, the fisherman uses a long stick attached to a curved net to deliver the fish and collect the cash.

Floating market at Sai Kung

Fisherman selling fish off the boat

Hong Kong may have turned into Asia’s financial centre but it seems not much has changed in Sai Kung.

Sai Kung- A perfect mix of East and the West

As I quickly called my friends to show them this arrangement, another smell drew me towards the market. Sea-food perhaps? I was not wrong. As we walked towards the town centre, a number of sea-food restaurants by the sea-side greeted us. We stared at the huge crabs inside the transparent vessels and then made our way further inside.

Sea food at Sai Kung

Historically a fishing village, Sai Kung has seen major development projects and a wave of expats flowing in over the years. Everyone feels at home here and all are welcome, no matter which race, country or religion you belong to.

Due to this unique blend of expats and locals, the Sai kung town centre consists of a number of local and western food joints. One minute we were sorting out dimsum menus and the next minute we were walking past hipster cafes serving cuisines from around the world. Whether you want a strong cup of coffee or a slice of pizza or some laksa, Sai kung has it all! Everything seemed perfectly at balance here and everyone seemed to enjoy life every second!

The beaches, islands and parks of Sai Kung

The charm of Sai Kung is not only in its perfect blend of culture and a relaxed vibe. Sai kung easily boasts many geographical miracles and nature’s gifts.

Giant hexagonal rocks in Sai Kung

From gigantic hexagonal rock columns in the East Dam to Hong Kong’s best beach “Tai Long Wan”, Sai Kung has it all. The ferries from the pier take you to a number of islands, many of which are untouched and geographically diverse.

The boat ride itself is a refreshing experience as the fresh wind blows over the sea and all the way through your hair. Innumerable hills and small islands pass you on both sides as the boat speeds through the emerald green water.

Hap Mun Bay

On my second trip to Sai Kung, my mother and I had visited Hap Bun Bay. Upon reaching, we surely felt nothing less than Robinson Crusoe but that story will be for another time.

The point is, whether you want breath-taking hikes (Maclehose trail) or just empty beaches (Tai Long Wan, Hap Bun Bay) or unique rock structures (Sharp island, East Dam tour at Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark) Sai Kung will not disappoint.

The Unforgettable Sri Lankan dinner

What’s the one thing that’s on your mind after you finish a hike or a trail? Food, of course, right? After exploring islands and parks, we were starving but we weren’t ready to just jump at the first food we found. Instead, we ventured out to explore once more.

 

My friend’s dinner at Aj’s Sri lankan Restaurant

As a person, I am always keen to try new cuisines and naturally, I have tasted most of the popular cuisines around Asia at least. This was until I found the Sri Lankan restaurant: “AJ’s Sri Lankan Cuisine” (no I don’t have a tie-up with this place!).

A cozy ambience greeted us and the aroma of Sri Lankan curry reminded us we were indeed starving! We delved into the menu and ordered a bunch of curries, biriyani, chicken and what not and every item was mouth-watering.

We grudgingly lifted our bodies after a while and took a stroll along the sea-side, just like the locals.

A promise to return

The night was approaching soon and we were far from home. We were happy and a part of me just wanted to remain there. The happiness of Sai Kung was indeed contagious. I promised myself that I would return soon and in less than a month, I was back here, exploring more islands.

My Happy place

After all, I had found paradise in Hong Kong and I was not willing to let go of it so easily. Right now, sitting on a bed and staring out of a window in Singapore, if there is one thing my heart misses about Hong Kong, its Sai Kung and its joyous vibe.

 

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India’s most underrated festival- Durga Puja

India’s most underrated festival- Durga Puja

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India is famous for its numerous festivals throughout the year and yet, Durga Puja being one of the best of them is rarely appreciated by other communities, let alone other countries. Every year, during September-October as I take leave from my busy schedule and return to Kolkata, a hundred voices question me if I am returning home to celebrate Diwali. Almost tired of explaining how important Durga Puja is to Bengalis, or anyone who has ever lived in Kolkata, I decided to write this article to answer a few questions about my favourite time of the year.

What exactly is Durga Puja all about?

Durga Puja or Dusshera is annual Hindu festival which is celebrated essentially over 5 days starting from Maha Shasti to Dashami. The festival marks the victory of Goddess Durga over the evil forces which had brought havoc on earth. She is a destroyer of the evil and protector of all. There is a long story that runs behind this festival and on the advent of the festival (Mahalaya), this story is displayed through dance drama on television and broadcasted on Radio. She is the ultimate symbol of power and a harbinger of joy and happiness.

How is it celebrated?

Durga Puja begins with Mahalaya. Thousands of people wake up early in the morning to tune in to the radio or sit in front of the television screen to watch the dance drama or listen to the stories behind goddess Durga’s existence. The main days of the festival are Shashti, Saptami, Ashtami, Navami and Dashami. Of course, many a times the celebration starts earlier as well.

Durga puja is essentially the festival of the people of West Bengal, commonly known as Bengalis and in every way it represents the quintessential Bengali culture. In order to truly celebrate this festival, it is therefore a must to understand the very essence of Bengalis themselves.

The Bengalis

The Bengalis are the residents of the state of West Bengal. Well, they are the majority at least. They are stereotyped to be a unique bunch of intellectuals who choose to stick to their values and opinions at all costs. A typical Bengali’s day starts with reading every inch of the newspaper while sipping a cup of tea. They are concerned about every issue in the world and have an opinion about it. These opinions are formed by their enormous knowledge about a myriad of subjects due to the huge importance placed on education by their parents and the Bengali society.

Bengali parents want their children to achieve the highest level of education even if that means sacrificing a high salary level. Clearly, they are not businessmen by nature. Rather, a number of famous poets, writers, film makers, politicians and freedom fighters have originated from this land. This community clearly recognizes that family, friends and happiness matter more than money.

A Bengali woman in a traditional dance

They are quintessentially lazy in many ways and can spend a whole day sitting on a pavement chatting with their friends. These chats are often termed as “adda”- it is this, that often keeps a Bengali smiling despite a thousand issues. There is a strong support system that exists among the members of this society and sharing their happiness and sorrows alike is an extremely important part of this system. Everyone believes it is their right to correct one another, to ensure their friends or family are following the morally correct path in their life.

Most importantly though, the Bengalis believe in cherishing every little moment and thus each day is a day for celebration. This is the real reason behind the endless festivals this community celebrates throughout the year. Likewise, very little work is done during the whole month of Durga Puja which is followed by other festivals during the same month.

Much like the Bengalis themselves, Durga Puja is a reflection of the victory of truth and justice over evil. It is a not only a celebration of their own principles but it also echoes their belief in the power of women. Moreover, it is a celebration of the finer things in life- art and culture.

Mahalaya

Mahalya marks the advent of Durga Puja. As the leaves of deciduous trees begin to change colour with the arrival of autumn, the residents of Bengal also begin to witness a change in their mood. As the festive mood starts to engulf every soul, one can feel the joy and anticipation in the air.

The patient wait for their close ones to return to the city, to walk the streets with long lost friends while gorging on  delicious food, to shop for at least five new dresses (one for every day of the festival) and to forget the daily stressful life in exchange for almost a week long celebration.

The story of Goddess Durga

On the day of Mahalaya, just like me, thousands of people overcome their laziness and break their sleep at dawn to either tune in to the radio or the television to witness the fascinating story of the emergence of Goddess Durga.

Long story cut short, once upon a time, a demon named “Mahishasura” performed a record breaking meditation in search of the god “Brahma” who is often seen as the creator of the universe. Unable to deter him from his austerities, Brahma appeared at last, from whom Mahishasura demanded immortality.

After a long hesitance, Brahma said “No man will ever be able to kill you”. Overjoyed with his blessing, this demon went on to cause havoc on earth and heaven but no God had the power to kill him according to Brahma’s blessing. To bring matter to an end, all the Gods in heaven combined their powers to create a lady force- “Durga” who received unique powers from each of the Gods.

As a lady, she now had the power to destroy Mahishasura. After a fearsome fight, the demon was finally killed by the “trishula”- the trident weapon of Devi Durga. The statues of Goddess Durga all around the city represents exactly this moment. The statues beside Devi Durga are those of her family members each of whom are known to have one special power.

Shasti- the first day

On the day of Shasti, with the statues of Goddess Durga being unveiled all over the city and gorgeous “Pandals” lighting up every corner, the celebrations officially begin! Pandals can be thought of as mini temporary homes which are built to host the statues of Goddess Durga.

Most Pandals have a theme and these themes truly represent the creative freedom of the Bengalis. These Pandals are what makes Durga Puja so unique. Creativity hits a whole new level while designing these Pandals.

From shoes to books to clothes, no item is ever too trivial to be used in the creation of a Pandal and no theme is ever unimaginable. From real life issues like global warming to mythological figures, the variety of themes knows no bounds.

A themed pandal showing global warming

It is important to note that not all those who celebrate Durga Puja are religious. I myself never pray to a statue but I make it a point to try and visit every famous Pandal in the city with my friends and family. On Shasti, it has become a tradition to meet some old friends from my society and after pushing through the crowds for hours, we finally relax in a café or a restaurant.

Saptami- the second day

A small sample of fusion Bengali food

With equal level of enthusiasm, Saptami is pretty much spent the same way. Meeting friends, stuffing ourselves with delicious street food and marveling at the beauty of the Pandals and the statues till our legs absolutely give up on us.

Ashtami- the most important day

Statue of Devi Durga

This day starts extremely early with an age-old tradition named “Anjali”. Everybody dresses up in the traditional costumes and rushes to the nearest Pandal in their society. Everyone repeats the “mantras” in unison as chanted by the priest, while standing in front of the Goddess.

A themed Pandal during the night

My favourite memory of this day is running back to my house to wait for the delicious breakfast that awaits me. Many of them even enjoy the free food that’s served by the Pandals – “The Prasad”. On this day, fashion takes a whole new outlook as the streets are filled with ladies draped in sarees and the men wearing kurtas.

On Ashtami, the city simply refuses to sleep. Thousands of people hit the roads and go Pandal Hopping whole night to catch the brilliant lighting of the Pandals.

Navami- the second last day

On Navami, one feels the urgency to enjoy every little thing as the next day would mark the end of the festival. No amount of fatigue stops us from “Pandal Hopping”. Although, for many, Durga Puja simply means dressing up in beautiful clothes and relaxing somewhere with their friends and family or simply observing traditional dance/drama/music held all over the city.

Unique mythological figure themed Pandal in Kolkata

For me, every Pandal holds a unique beauty and imagination of an artist that must be witnessed. Imagine these artists and workers who plan and create such gorgeous artwork knowing they would be destroyed within 5-7 days, only for the purpose of entertaining the members of the society. If this does not show the true spirit of Bengalis, I don’t know what does.

trippy decorations on the ceiling of a pandal

Dashami- the last day

Yes, we feel a deep sense of sorrow as this festival comes to an end but do we cry our heart out? No! We dance our heart out instead! The last day is usually spent with the family and by the evening, the married women take part in a ritual named “Sidoor Khela”. “Sidoor” or “Sindur” is the red powder that adorns a woman’s head to signify she is married.

On this day, all the married women smear each other’s faces with Sindur and slowly everyone else joins in to dance to traditional Bengali songs to bid farewell to Devi Durga. This dance is popularly known as “Bhashan dance”- “Bhashan” signifying the process of immersing the statues of Goddess Durga and her family members on the river Ganges.

A Pandal made from women’s bangles

As the statues are put on a vehicle to be transferred to the banks of the river, a huge procession alive with music and dance follows it till the end. Every heart is filled with a tinge of sadness as the statues begin to dissolve in the holy water of the Ganges to remind us that nothing is permanent and yet life is worth celebrating.

A few tips for first time visitors

  • Forget all the stories of you heard about how unsafe India is for women. During this time, Kolkata is extremely safe for women even during the night.
  • The crowds can get worse than you can imagine. So, prepare for it. For women- preferably, go Pandal hopping with a few male friends. Although the city is safe during this time, some men would undoubtedly try to take advantage of the crowd to get uncomfortably close to the women.
  • Watch the news and read the newspaper to find out the best Pandals for that particular year and visit them
  • Do not even think about getting a car along as the parking spaces are far away from the Pandals and many roads are blocked. Use the public transport. When in doubt, ask the locals, they are more than willing to guide you
  • Make sure you try every street food you see and definitely visit the fairs that take place in various parts of the city
  • Wear comfortable shoes and clothes as hours of walking and pushing through the crowd will be an inevitable part of the journey
  • Keep your camera ready before you enter the Pandal. Most famous Pandals have securities who stop you from staying in the Pandal for more than a minute at the maximum. Make sure you click fast and move along with the crowd.
  • Plan your journey well. Kolkata is not a small city and the Pandals are spread out all over the city. It is better to break them down into small regions like South Kolkata (near Gariahat), Behala, Saltlake and North Kolkata and visit separate sections on each day.
  • Most importantly, keep an open mind to enjoy the vibe of the city and the spirit of the festival.

Follow me on Instagram (@madhurimadutta12) for more pictures!

Why you must include Lombok in your next Bali trip

Why you must include Lombok in your next Bali trip

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I am sure many travellers and backpackers have asked themselves if Lombok is to be included in the itinerary. Can it substitute Bali? Is it worth exploring?

Bali or Lombok? Or both?

White sandy beaches, blue-green water and perfect sunsets- that’s how I had imagined Bali! I was disappointed to say the least but I found all of these, not in Bali but in an island a little away from Bali- Lombok. Hence, this article will sing praises of this unearthly beautiful island and why you must visit it right away. All pictures in this blog are real pictures.

Beautiful Beaches of Lombok

Beautiful Beaches of Lombok

Don’t get me wrong. Bali is quite unique in its own way. Bali’s temples, cliffs, nightlife and a range of activities attracts tourists from around the world and I must admit right away that all of these are quite wonderful. In fact, if you wish to go temple hopping or enjoy crazy parties or chill at a beach café during sunset or take part in water sports, then Bali has it all. In fact, if you are going to Bali, you should definitely make a trip to Tanah Lot and Uluwatu like Mario did.

What it mostly lacks is untouched nature, breath-taking beaches, gorgeous waterfalls and a sense of tranquillity that calms the soul. What Bali lacks, Lombok makes up for and in short, that’s precisely the charm of Lombok.

First things first-

How do you get to Lombok?

Lombok has its own airport and if you are flying from Singapore, you can choose to book a flight to Lombok or take a flight from Bali to Lombok.

Various airlines like Lion Air, Wings Air etc operate on this route (Bali to Lombok) and you can find return tickets for as cheap as 60-65 SGD. It takes only about 30-40 minutes.

Lombok is also accessible by fast boat and (slow) ferry from Bali. The ferry takes quite a few hours but will cost you only a few dollars. So, if you are surely not seasick and have plenty of time in your hand, you may go for it. There are also several fast boat options but they cost as much (or more) as the flight and hence the flight is definitely a better option.

Once you get off at the airport, find the several airport taxi counters to book a cab.

How long should you stay in Lombok

Lombok is so beautiful that you can even spend a month or more here but one week I believe is the minimum (excluding Gili islands). Anything less than a week and you will leave with the feeling that you trip was just way too short.

At this point, it is perhaps wise to remember that if you are coming to Lombok expecting fancy beach cafes or bars to chill at in the evening, then you will be disappointed. Lombok is amazing but only if you come for the right reasons.

The must visit places in Lombok

1. Tetebatu village -My stay in Lombok- Day 1

When people think of Lombok, they think of Senggigi or Kuta. Very rarely do cab drivers drive someone all the way to Tetebatu village. So rare is the occasion that they do not even have a fixed standard fare for it in their fare chart. This presented me the perfect opportunity to bargain.

They proposed 350,000IDR and I refused to pay more than 150-175,000IDR. I calmly suggested that I would take a golden bird taxi from outside if they can’t cut down on their prices. Finally, they agreed on 200,000IDR which is a pretty fair bargain considering Tetebatu is around 1.5hours drive from the airport.

Lombok was my love at first sight. As the journey to Tetebatu continued, I began to fall in love with Lombok more and more. No sign of tourism industry, barely any sign of urbanization and lush greenery as far as your eyes can venture. I had booked a homestay via Airbnb which was in a village adjacent to Tetebatu. As I arrived, I was greeted by a large and friendly family. The homestay was just as I had pictured- a nice little house right in front of acres and acres of greenery. I couldn’t have been happier with my choice.

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After a quick shower and home cooked lunch, one of the family members offered to show me around. In Tetebatu, the primary mode of transportation is bike/scooter. Since I couldn’t drive one myself, my only option was to sit behind someone else and use it as a motorbike taxi (Gojek-as its popularly known in Indonesia). Since this is a village, many things don’t work in a formal or professional manner.

No cost was discussed when he offered to show me around and since everyone stayed like a family, it felt a little awkward to bring it up. Of course, looking back I realize I should have discussed it first.

What to do in Tetebatu Village, Lombok

I sat on the bike and we went to the next few villages. They say the journey matters more than the destination and Tetebatu will make you realize why. Passing through the countless farms and fields,  as the fresh wind gushes past your face and tosses your hair around, you will feel rejuvenated and wish to continue the journey forever. The next few hours were spent in exploring the different villages and the Sasak culture.

Hand weaving of Sarong in Pringasela, lombok

Hand weaving of Sarong in Pringasela, lombok

Pringasela- which is known for hand weaving and making Sarong (the traditional colourful Indonesian dress), Loyok- famous for its bamboo handicrafts, another village where they make rice wine and then a house where they dress you up in Lombok traditional costume. Most people are quite friendly but you must remember that after observing the various processes, they expect you to buy something from their shop.

More than the processes, what I distinctly remember is the journey, sometimes through concrete roads and sometimes through broken roads amongst rice fields. Anyone who has ever considered going to Lombok would know about Mt. Rinjani- a trekker’s dream come true and a gorgeous volcano.

I stood in the middle of a rice field and watched sunset as the clouds played hide and seek with Mt. Rinjani.. Even from far, its very presence will fill your heart with joy. At that moment, I felt complete. In the middle of nowhere, I found a little piece of heaven.

The view of Mount Rinjani during sunset

The view of Mount Rinjani during sunset

Evening time in Tetebatu village, Lombok

In the evening, there isn’t much to do in a typical village, other than sitting around and talking to each other and Tetebatu was no exception. We returned to find most of the family members sitting in the common area and some watching television.

Bollywood (Indian hindi movies) is extremely popular there and the moment anyone found out I am from India, they would throw in a couple of hindi words and names of famous actors! The day ended with a few hours of hearty conversation with the host family as well as a delightful Portuguese family who were also staying there at the same time.

2. Benang Kelambu Waterfall and Burung Walet waterfall

The next day I woke up to the sound of chickens calling out and had delicious banana pancake for breakfast, which is a very popular breakfast in Bali and Lombok. Another member of the family would show me around the village but he was kind enough to mention that it will cost me. However, he mentioned extremely low amounts- 10,000IDR if I remember correctly and I decided to give him more anyway.

Burung Walet Waterfall- the hidden paradise of Tetebatu

It was monsoon and since the rain gods had shown mercy on us, we decided to seize the opportunity and visit the waterfall as the way involves walking through river and some rocks. With the blessing of bright sunshine, we started our journey. Passing through fields of onion, tomato, chilli and every possible vegetable, we soon reached the waterfall which has an entry fee of 10,000IDR. I quickly checked the entry book and seemed like I was the only non-European person who had come here in the recent past. We started our walk and soon we were passing through a small river surrounded by rocks and cave like structures. The path itself is not difficult but due to a recovering injury in my leg, I needed sufficient help from my host to finally get to the waterfall.

The tiny but powerful waterfall hidden in a cave

The tiny but powerful waterfall hidden in a cave

The waterfall itself was a small one but the fact that it appeared to cross at the mouth of a cave like structure and then flow down with a striking force made it quite appealing. Moreover, we were the only ones in the waterfall and I fulfilled my long due desire of swimming in the waterfall.

It wasn’t much of a swim as the water’s force was constantly pushing me away from the source but it was fun nevertheless. Playing around in the water in a personal cave, I did not realize how fast time passed by. Suddenly, I realized we have to visit other places. I quickly came out and changed in a small area covered by a thick cloth and headed back.

Black Monkey Forest

This forest is known for black monkeys but there is no definite spot for it. Needless to say, you have to venture deep into the forest for finding one. The forest itself is quite nice and peaceful for walking around. After walking for a while, my injury made it impossible for me to walk deeper into the forest and hence we decided to get out instead and leave the black monkey’s sight for another time.

We did however witness part of the daily life of villagers where one man had climbed up the tree and was shaking various branches as some of the women stood beneath the tree to catch the fruits that were dropping from the branches.

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Benang Kelambu waterfall- the one thing you absolutely can’t miss in Lombok

While sitting in a rice field, I suddenly remembered the picture of a beautiful waterfall which had caught my eye at the airport. My host then informed me that the waterfall was about 1 hour away by motorbike. On my request, he agreed to take me there after a quick lunch.

As we started our journey, I couldn’t help but feel the joy of being in the heart of mother nature. In Lombok (especially tetebatu), mother nature is everywhere, all around you. Everywhere you look, your eyes will see the pleasant typical beauty of an unexplored and lovely village.

The normal roads of Tetebatu and nearby villages

The normal roads of Tetebatu and nearby villages

After one hour of bike ride, we finally reached the waterfall. In fact, it’s a national park with multiple waterfalls but Kembung waterfall is the only one that’s accessible without a hike. The entry is slightly expensive as compared to the other areas of Lombok but it’s absolutely worth it. You can walk all the way to the waterfall but its recommended to take your bike as there is a parking near the waterfall.

Benang Kelambu Waterfall, Lombok- The best thing in Lombok

Benang Kelambu Waterfall, Lombok- The best thing in Lombok

As you walk down the steps to reach the waterfall, you realise, it’s in fact a bunch of waterfalls and not one. The whole scenery appears as if water is flowing from the trees itself and down the rocks and steps. I even managed to catch a light rainbow in front of one of the waterfalls. Sitting there, gazing at this unique combination of trees and water, I can’t even begin to tell you how calm my soul felt. If there is one thing you must absolutely not miss in Lombok, it is the Benang Kelambu waterfall.

Benang Kelambu Waterfall

You can spend hours just lazing on these steps or dipping in the water under the sun. The best part- it wasn’t even crowded! I wish I could have visited the other waterfalls too but due to my injury, I had to restrict myself to this one only.

We finally made our way back and spent the evening drinking local coffee (without milk) and watching the coconut oil making process. Remember, after observing the lengthy process, you have to pay them for it! I slept early as I had a ferry to the Gili islands the next day early morning.

The harbour (Bangsal) is nearly 2 hours away! So, plan your trip accordingly if have limited days. I did return to Lombok after a day’s stay in the Gilis (due to my bad planning of course). Hence, the following part is about the sun-kissed beaches of Lombok.

3. Kuta beach, Lombok- Day 3

As I arrived from Gili Air, my new host received me at Bangsal harbour and drove me this place. Andy’s place is right opposite kuta beach and if you get out and cross the road, you land right on the beach. It’s cheap, clean and perfectly located. I quickly freshened up and jumped across the road to the beach.

Kuta Beach, Lombok

Despite being one of the well-known beaches of Lombok, it is barely crowded and boasts of impossibly beautiful waters. On sunny days, you can catch a hundred shades of blue and green being reflected on the water. Most of Lombok’s beaches are surrounded by small hills, thus giving them a very unique feel. The water is clear and you can swim here or just lay by the beach.

4. Selong Belanak Beach

Because I had only one day to cover all the beaches, I went beach-hopping! My next stop was Selong Belanak. My host drove me there on a bike and mentioned it’s one of his favourite beaches. As usual, the road was covered with aesthetically pleasing sights.

random views in Lombok

Selong Belanak is a good beach to learn surfing or just soak in the sun. The water isn’t dirty but there are a number of boats in the water. Surrounded by hills on all sides, the area seems like a shot right out of a movie set.

I sat on one of the beach chairs and enjoyed a cheap lunch and drink. I finished my story book, as I lay there soaking up the sun after lunch. Suddenly, it began to drizzle and I rushed back to find my host. One can also hike up the small cliff on the side for some wonderful shots.

Selong Belanak Beach, Lombok

We were on our way back when the rain hit hard and drenched every bit of us. Luckily, I protected my camera and phone with my waterproof jacket but as a result, both of us were soaking wet by the time we reached home.

I freshened up and prayed the clouds would drift away and give us a clear sky. Well, as they say, when you want something from the bottom of your heart, even luck takes your side. This time, we took a car and headed over to the last beach for the day.

5. Tanjung Aan beach, Lombok

White sands, blue water and absolute peace. That’s my impression of Tanjung Aan. While Selong Belanak’s beach is spread over a long stretch surrounded by hills, Tanjung aan is comparatively smaller. Unfortunately the sun was already down by the time we got there but it’s a perfect getaway if you want a cosy and nice beach.

Tanjung Aan beach, Lombok

Most of Tanjung Aan hasn’t been developed much and hence lesser crowd than Selong Belanak. There is a cliff right beside the beach and on sunny days, it would be a perfect spot for sunset! It is also wise to note that the road to Tanjung Aan is best covered in daylight as many travelers choose to bring their motorbike/scooter here.

6. Mawun Beach, Lombok

To be honest, this was my least favourite beach in Lombok. It wasn’t dirty but for some reason it’s beauty did not attract me enough. I only made a quick stop here on my way to Selok Belanak. In some ways it looks similar to Selok Belanak and yet Selok Belanak has a better feel.

In Lombok, there isn’t much of a nightlife and hence I took up the opportunity to pack my bag and then divulge into a long lasting conversation with my host and his future plans.

The best part about homestays is  that you can really get to know the local way of life and that’s wonderful. Their thoughts, their dreams, their lifestyle..all of it. It is during these very hours, your horizon broadens, you start understanding different mentalities and thought processes and grow as a person. It is a beautiful thing, perhapsas beautiful as truly understanding yourself.

The next day, as I waved goodbye to this mesmerizing place, I felt a deep sense of lose, as if I was leaving behind a part of me in this island. I glanced at Mt. Rinjani one last time and promised to return soon.

 

My sincere request

The moment I left Lombok, I wanted to scream and tell every nature lover and backpacker to head over to Lombok right away! So, here is me, screaming out loud in writing. Go visit Lombok! Go before tourism industry takes over and destroys its natural beauty.

If you are looking to chill in fancy cafes by the beach, don’t go to Lombok. If you want luxurious hotels with sea view rooms, don’t go to Lombok. If you want a great nightlife or fancy tourist activities don’t go to Lombok either.

But, if you are a nature lover, if untouched, raw nature is what calms your soul, if you are a backpacker and can live without a few luxuries, then I urge you, give this island a chance and you will come back with some soulful memories.

Roads in Tetebatu village

A few tips before you head over to Tetebatu

  • Tetebatu is a village. The main mode of transportation is motor bike. Expect nothing more. If you can’t drive, the locals are willing to show you around
  • Remember most of the processes that they show you can be chargeable.
  • The beaches of Lombok and Bangsal harbour are really far from the village. 2-2.5 hours. Hence, it is wise to keep that in mind while planning an itinerary.
  • Tetebatu is quite pocket friendly but the people do need money. Do tip generously if you can afford it.
  • No hotels are available yet in these villages (fortunately or unfortunately)
  • The village is quite safe for solo travels but there is nothing to do after sunset, except chatting up the locals.
  • Wifi connection may be quite weak. It helps if you purchase your own sim card and data plan.
  • The roads can get extremely bumpy and rough. Don’t worry, the locals are great with their motorbikes.
  • I had a wonderful experience staying at Makbul’s place. If you wish, you can do the same and book via airbnb. Search for sasak traditional style room and Makbul as your host.

A few tips before you head over to Lombok

  • First and foremost, you might notice the lack of mention of Mt. Rinjani as a must visit place in my article. Unfortunately, I did not have the fortune of trekking Rinjani but if you can, it is the first thing you absolutely must do!
  • Lombok is a cash economy. Carry cash and it helps!
  • Public transport is almost zero in most places of Lombok. The little busses that do run will not take you to most of the beaches or the villages. However, car hires (with drivers) and bike rentals are available and if you stay with a host, you can pay him to drive you around in a bike or car.
  • Senggigi is the most popular destination in Lombok but due to its popularity it may be more crowded.
  • Remember, Lombok has a rainy season and it rains unexpectedly from time to time. December is also rainy season. Plan accordingly.
  • There are not too many food options as only local food is available due to a lack of tourism influence.
  • Lombok can also be accessed from the Gili islands via boats.
  • Andy’s place was the perfect accommodation for me. If you want to stay a his homestay, search Big Bed at Kuta Lombok and find Andy as you host.
  • And Lastly, Lombok isn’t exactly a tourist spot yet. Come with the right expectations and you will be amazed at what you find.
Japan- A unique world

Japan- A unique world

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A random thought, a few hours of planning and a thumbs up from my friend- that’s all it took for me to land up in Japan. My summer internship would begin on the 9th of May and my exam would end on the 3rd of May. I had about 4-5 days for a small trip.

Weather in other Asian countries was unpleasant to say the least whereas Japan could boast of a nice and comfortable weather at this point of time. Moreover, my friend was studying in Japan and hence could help with the planning. Hence two days before my exams began, I began to plan my trip to Japan.

The main obstacle which genuinely challenged my entire plan was visa. Carrying an Indian Passport implies that I would require visa for most countries and Japan was no exception. The embassy required 5 working days to process my visa which meant that I would get my visa on the day of my departure.

It also meant that I would have to collect my visa on the day of my last exam and then fly out immediately after my exam. It was a risk, a big one but if it worked then I would be able to spend maximum time in Japan.

I spent the entire day gathering documents and booking my flight tickets. At a point of time, I was almost sure that this trip is not possible because a certain document I required from the university for my visa application could be delivered to me only after 4 days which meant I would not receive my visa even on the date of departure.

However, a lot of running around and talking to different people yielded good results and I managed to receive the document. The next day instead of preparing for my exam, I rushed to the Japan embassy and applied for my visa. Many people called me crazy and many called me lucky.

It’s always easier said than done. You can sit there and dream of travelling the world or you can get up and overcome every obstacle and get on a flight. The choice, most often is yours.

I had decided that I don’t wish to regret missing an opportunity later and since you only live once, I wanted to make sure I make the best use of this one life. Hence, on the day of my last exam, I collected my visa, packed my bag, finished my exam and rushed to the airport.

My friends booked a cab for me and the driver was genuinely concerned if I can make it on time. The stars aligned to ensure that every risk I took was successful and finally I was on my way to Japan- the land which is a world apart from any other country.

A long flight via Malaysia landed me in Kansai, Osaka. Right from the beginning, Japan never failed to surprise me. I found an alarming number of people, especially girls wearing masks.

My friend later mentioned that not only are they extremely careful about not spreading any infection, but in some parts of Japan, it’s also a fashion trend! Well, wasn’t Japan known for its peculiar trends!

Half a day in Osaka

Kansai airport is located in an artificial island in Osaka Bay. Needless to say that the drive back to the city mainly involved driving on a bridge over the sea. I had landed in Japan during the Golden Week- which is a week of celebration and holiday.

The first thing that struck me was that the city was abnormally quite, at least compared to Singapore. We drove to the Osaka (Jo) Castle. The beautiful greenery all around and a canal surrounding the area was a great break from the dazzling Singapore skyline.

Osaka Jo

Osaka Jo

Osaka Jo was a beautiful castle standing amidst this greenery. The queue to enter the castle was never ending and thus we decided to skip it. Instead we walked around it to enjoy the scenery. Cycling is extremely common in Japan and I realised yet again that I need to learn cycling soon.

Takoyaki

Takoyaki

Osaka is famous for its Takoyaki! Hence, I had to try the world’s best Takoyaki and it did not disappoint us. It was truly mouth-watering. Japanese food is famous throughout the world and now I know why.

We went on to try Okonomiaki despite struggling with chopsticks, I enjoyed every bite of this delicious item. We spent the next few hours in another city called Nagoya and tried to figure out how the complicated train service works.

There are at least 4-5 types of trains and you can’t avail all of them from all stations. This is along with the problem that most writings or instructions are written only in Japanese and everyone speaks only Japanese, especially in the smaller or less touristy places.

It was night by the time we reached Hamamatsu, the city where my friend lived. It was also the city where I would witness the festival- Matsuri. After a soulful talk with my friend, we crashed for the night.

Experiencing the festival in Hamamatsu-Matsuri

Although it was the last day of Matsuri, people flowed in with heaps of energy. The kite festival was held beside a beach. Hundreds of groups of Japanese dressed up in traditional clothing and flew huge kites in groups for the healthy growth of their child. We enjoyed the wind as hundreds of people ran around to save their kites._MG_0972

After sometime we headed to the rock beach and played around with the waves. The sun kissed greeted us along with the strong winds making sure it’s the perfect weather for a beach day.

Water has always made me happy. There is something calming about just being in water.

With sand on our feet and a smile on our face, we headed back to the city where we witnessed the Parade and the celebrations. Matsuri almost felt like a global festival rather than a Japanese one.

There was food from different countries and performances representing different nations. There were two girls performing on a unicycle, a group of women dancing on Hawaiian music, a guy showcasing Michael Jackson’s Moonwalk and it went on.

In the evening, the whole city comes alive with the parade which consists of “floats” from each part of the city and are gorgeously decorated. Children sitting inside these play soothing music using various music _MG_1049instruments.

The floats move around the city with hundreds of citizens following them. The whole city celebrates together and happiness flows in the air.

After witnessing Hamamatsu Matsuri, we headed over to the downtown area to enjoy some snacks. I often pictured the Japanese as a very serious bunch but that day I realized that every human being likes to have fun.

Burdened by societal pressures of working hard, they barely get a second to spare for themselves or their families. This is probably why festivals most often mean family time for them.

Over dinner, we tried to figure out the best way to reach Mt. Fuji the next day and after a long discussion, we decided to take the train to Fuji station and then take a bus from there.

Everyone said busses will be available but even the officials in the train station could not give us the details. We thus had no choice but to go there the next day and figure out the bus route.

The most famous destination in Japan- Mt.Fuji

After catching 2-3 hours of sleep, we took the train to Fuji station. Thank god my friend understands Japanese, otherwise I am convinced we would never make it. After changing trains and reaching Fuji station, we asked a lady at the counter about the bus.

What happened next made me realise the importance of planning beforehand, especially when your schedule is not flexible or you have only a few days at hand.

The bus which is the only mode of transportation other than cab, runs only on weekends and it was a Friday. Of course, I did not want to miss my only chance at looking at Mt. Fuji. So, we took a cab and paid an insane amount for it.

The driver kept asking us if we are sure we want to go because the amount was so high! Since it was raining, we also told him to include Shiraito waterfalls in the trip which increased our amount even more.

Thankfully, the Japanese are one of the most sincere, helpful and honest people in the world. Their value system knows no bounds. He offered to drive us at an agreed price and later we realized this amount was much lesser than the metered fare.

Mt. Fuji

Mt. Fuji

The best part of Fuji city is that throughout the journey to Mt. Fuji, we could see the mountain at our side.
The cab dropped us somewhere in the middle of Fujisan (Mt. Fuji) and a gush of cold wind greeted us as we stepped out of the car. Mixed with a drizzle, the cold wind almost froze our hands for a while.

We walked around for a while and took pictures. We observed as the clouds covered and uncovered the partially snow covered peak, as if playing hide and seek with us.

The mighty mountain seemed different from up-close. I remembered a picture from the souvenir shop which was taken in winter, the sun rays covered the completely snow capped mountain and gave a divine glow to it. I immediately wished to come back in winter to this beautiful mountain. Half drenched in the rain, we made our way to Shiraito Waterfalls.

The untold story of Shiraito and Otodome Waterfalls

You thought Fujisan was beautiful? Well, so are a 100 other peaks in the world! Welcome to Shiraito Waterfalls- an area covered with numerous waterfalls in a semi-circular fashion. One of its kind in the world I believe.

Otodome waterfalls lives up to its name which means “Stop the sound”. A noisy, high and speedy waterfall before you make your journey to Shiraito waterfall. The waterfalls flow beautifully with a maddening force throughout the year. Walk for a minute to witness the unique sight of Shiraito waterfalls.

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This one is worth every hype, even more so than Fujisan. As you make your journey down the steps of Shiraito waterfalls, every moment you shall be mesmerized at its simplicity, at its beauty. Although the water flows calmly, the whole area makes you feel at peace.

Oh how I wish, we were allowed to immerse ourselves in the waterfalls. It is a hard truth that my pictures definitely failed to capture its true beauty but it gives me great joy that my eyes have captured that sight and frozen it in my memory.

A ride to Kyoto- Shinkansen

The cab driver helped us take plenty of pictures and showed us around. The Japanese are really a unique race. After our day trip, we headed over to Kyoto.

Of course, you can’t come to Japan and not ride the Shinkansen- Bullet train! So, we took a bullet train from Fuji city to our most awaited destination- Kyoto! This is again an experience one must not miss out on. Although, the tickets are more expensive, the journey is worth it.

As one bullet train passed by us, I was taken aback momentarily at its speed! The interiors are well designed and comfortable and in almost no time we were in Kyoto!

Finally we stepped into this city where I wish to live someday. A city that I shall never forget. As we stepped out of the station, we were greeted by a crowded place which had numerous bus stops and maps. After staring at a few maps, we still looked lost.

This is when the Japanese proved their helpfulness yet again. An old man walked up to us and guided us to the correct bus stop. The best part about the people is, they don’t just guide you! They take you to the nearby place you need to go to.

We took a bus and in Kyoto, the ticket system was different. It’s a strange system where you pay the same amount to reach a destination, no matter where you boarded the bus from! The ticket prices are almost same if you travel two stops or ten stops!

We alighted at our stop and walked around in the dark to find our hotel. A lady helped us and finally we entered our room.

Kyoto- the city you can miss Tokyo for

We could not contain our excitement although our body told us to sleep, we ventured out to the streets at night searching for dinner. Japan is one of the safest countries in the world and that naturally affects our behaviour.

In many countries, two girls would not dare to venture out at night but this city reminded me of Singapore, where you can go out even at 2am and not feel a hint of danger. The streets were quite but a few small eateries were open. The houses had a traditional feel to it.

We walked around aimlessly and finally found a tiny place which was cosy and looked just perfect.

It was a small open kitchen eatery and the host was friendly. He made steak in front of us and it was one of the most delicious steaks I have ever had! I somehow managed to compliment him in Japanese and his face lit up with happiness.

My friend spoke to him for some time and we enjoyed our dinner and hung out there till our bodies missed the beds desperately. These small eateries are one of my favourite, they are small, cosy and in every corner of Kyoto. We ended the day after making a rough schedule for the next day.

We ventured out early morning. Never forget that locals always know the best. We asked the guy who runs the guesthouse how to get to some of the places.

The problem is that Kyoto is a city filled with absolutely beautiful shrines & temples. You would be in serious dilemma about which ones to visit, especially if you have made the mistake of visiting Kyoto for one day. There are plenty of itineraries available on the internet but we did not follow any. Instead, we chose a few random places and I have no regrets.

A day in Kyoto

Tofukuji temple and Daigoji temple

Many blogs told me that Tofukuji temple is a must see which many people miss out on. Thus, right at the beginning of our journey, we took a bus to reach Tofukuji temple. On our way, we entered at least 5-6 other small temples each of which are beautiful and peaceful. The best part of Kyoto is not the huge temples with lush greenery.

_MG_1129It’s the mood of the city which is set by its beautiful curvy lanes and the innumerable small temples which stand like deserted but well maintained houses welcoming you with their gates wide open. Even if you don’t wish to buy tickets to enter the famous temples, you can always find a spot in these shrines & temples and enjoy the mood of the city.

 

Tofukuji

Tofukuji

Some Zen art,some typical Japanese doors and gardens after, we finally reached Tofukuji and it was worth every minute of our time.

An entire area filled with temples resonating Zen art and lush greenery at every angle your gaze can travel.

A small canal peeks out of this beautiful scenery and the flutter of the leaves instantly makes me regret not visiting Kyoto during autumn.

Autumn is when the leaves display different shades of red and orange almost as if painted by artists. I could not even begin to imagine how beautiful this place would be during autumn.

 

Due to _MG_1187lack of time, we did not enter every temple but we did sit there for a while, almost as if the place had its own gravity.

I marveled at the irony that a non-religious girl like me who does not believe in idol worship can be so attracted to this place, only to realize that this is perhaps the true value of temples- where you can find your own peace, your own way.

A quick lunch at a café where a pet dog greeted us was enough to keep us moving and we realized more than half the day is already gone!
We realized that most temples happen to shut down around 5pm and thus we must hurry to enter at least one more.

Ginkaku-ji Temple

Our aim was to visit the Kinkaku-ji temple but due to time constraint, we decided on Ginkaku-ji instead. My friend told me it’s named after the silver symbol which lies on top of the temple.

After a pleasant walk by canals, origami shops and taking pictures with ladies dressed in Yukata (the traditional costumes), we reached this temple. A simple mix of water bodies, Japanese styled temples and lovely gardens, oh! What a pleasant sight it was! Nothing extra-ordinary and yet so beautiful, so elegant in its own way

We explored the gardens and tried to capture in our memory as much as we could take in, before the temple shut down for the day. We walked the street ahead which was full of traditional Japanese items and I filled my bag with plenty of souvenirs.

The elegant and colourful chopsticks with never-ending variety of designs are my favourite. It was evening and we could have easily gone for dinner since all the temples had closed down for the day but I wanted more, just a bit more of this wonderful city.

Arashimaya Bamboo Forest at night

japanArashimaya was almost another end of the city. While the place is an attractive sight in the daylight, the roads barely have any lights at night. We sat by the river and swung our legs above the water as the mountains beside looked over us. We decided to go into the famous Bamboo Forest even though it was pretty late.

The initial walk is through a forested area which would have been very normal during day time but at night was almost pitch-dark. There were occasional faint sounds of perhaps leaves or small animals but we ignored them and walked ahead.

My friend confirmed with me again n again if I was sure I wish to go on. She was happy to see markings that point the way ahead as it showed we were not lost. We followed google maps and reached the beginning of the path of the Bamboo Forest.

Till then, I was sure about entering the forest. Till then, I had not seen other human beings nearby. Suddenly, right at the entrance, we spotted a car, parked on the side, silent and immobile. Meeting human beings at this stage was not exactly what I hoped for, even though I deeply respected the Japanese people.

After debating a bit about our course of action, we flashed the light at the car while walking past it. A couple (perhaps middle aged) looked highly annoyed, they seemed to be praying! Till date, I have not deciphered their possible reason to sit in a car quietly in the middle of the forest and pray! My friend asked me if they are into black magic! I did not wish to entertain such thoughts at this point of time.

We marched on, deeper into the path, surrounded by gigantic bamboo trees on both sides, guided by our flashlight. Not a single soul in sight and pin drop silence. Was I scared? A little, of course! Then, I looked at the trees, their shape, their number and forgot all about my fear.

I urged my friend to switch off the lights for a minute to enjoy the darkness. Much against her will, she did. The next minute was possibly one of the best moments of the trip.

Complete darkness at first. Then, your eyes get used to it, the shapes of the trees begin to appear eventually. As I stood there, amidst this dense bamboo forest, I realized yet again how small we are in front of Mother Nature.

I took deep breaths and enjoyed every second of the silence, of the forest in darkness, the wind which reached us in between the gaps of the trees and the serenity of the place. My friend jolted me back to reality with the lights and we continued walking along the path. As we walked, we wondered where the path leads. We reached a small temple where some lampshades were hanging and they were lit! We also passed by small sub-temples (perhaps) which were closed.

As we entered the area, we thought we saw a shadow of a man passing by. We looked around and there was no one. Not only did we remember Japan’s low crime rate, we also felt safe due the nearby lights. We walked on further and saw a man coming back. We realized later, he lives there. Finally, we reached the street and thus human civilisation was upon us once again. We walked to the Arashimaya station which itself is designed like a kimono forest and lights up wonderfully at night. We took the empty train back and realised we were starving.

We found a small street full of restaurants, small eateries and some bars. While it seemed like midnight in Arashimaya, this place was full of life even at this hour. We walked up and down the street attempting to decide where to grab dinner, till we came across a tiny eatery with an open kitchen. I love these kind of places. The food looked fresh and authentic. The place was super crowded and everybody seemed to know each other as well as the cook. They ate and drank and chatted merrily sitting on small chairs right beside the road. Everyone seemed happy. We went in to ask for Takoyaki but the cook understood only Japanese and there was too much noise. A kind customer helped us convey the massage to him. Finally, it was decided that we would come back in an hour to pick up our Takoyaki. Just as we were about to leave, we saw him cooking some delicious fried noodles. We instantly wished to try it out but he informed us that it was for another customer and his stock is over. Feeling our disappointment, the same kind customer who also seemed to know everyone, gave us two bowls and chopsticks and picked up some of the noodles from his friend and told us to try some! We did and it was indeed delicious. He offered us some more after we were finished. I was speechless at the hospitality shown to strangers-foreigners. We thanked him wholeheartedly as he went back to chatting with his friends. Even though language was a problem, everyone seemed more than happy to help. Only in Japan!

How we tried Horsemeat Sushi

Horsemeat sushi

Horsemeat sushi

We walked on and found another restaurant with a lively ambience. There was a game going on where 2 winners would contest by playing some game and the winner would receive a free dish (one of their specialities). We were welcomed and shown the menu. We decided we must have sushi at least on my last day here. Hence, my friend ordered sushi. After a quick conversation with the waitress, she informed me that the translation seems to imply some animal’s meat but she could not remember which. We ordered it nonetheless. Later on, she remembered that it means horse, Horsemeat sushi! I was even more excited!

We had a fantastic dinner and horsemeat sushi did not disappoint, although the meat was a little chewy.

We went back to collect our Takoyaki from this friendly bunch of people at the eatery and wished them goodnight and headed back for the night.

The return trip

Kyoto’s only problem is that the closest airport is the Osaka airport. This was going to be my first journey without my friend but I had gotten more accustomed to the public transport. I left early morning and hopped on the bus. The bus would drop me at another bus terminal from where we can find bus services to the airport. I made a guess between two stops and chose the correct one. Once I reached, I asked around to reach the place, only to realize you have to book tickets as the immediate one is already fully booked. I booked my tickets from the counter, fetched myself breakfast and waited for the next bus. An uneventful journey when I began to realize how hectic these last few days have been and how less time I have dedicated to sleep. I dozed off only to wake up at the correct moment to get off at the airport. The airport amidst all the water! With a heavy heart, I bid goodbye to this polite country which was a culturally a world apart from any place I have visited earlier.

I realized I would not wish to live in Japan, except for Kyoto perhaps but there is definitely a lot I could learn from them. I promised myself to visit Kyoto during fall and the other stunning beauties this country offers and drifted to sleep as my flight took off for Singapore.

Few tips for Kyoto

  • First and foremost, visit Kyoto. No other place in the world can substitute for its charm. So, if you have one day in Japan, go to Kyoto and not anywhere else. Trust me, you won’t regret it.
  •  Best season to visit Kyoto- Fall, which is during November and/or early December. The leaves display various shades of orange & red and the whole city is transformed into a fairy tale world. Of course, cherry blossom is beautiful too.
  •  Best mode of transportation- while public transport is pretty good and some of the bus stops even offer free wifi, the best way is to cycle around. So, if you know how to cycle (which most people do know, unlike me), that is indeed the best option.
  • Do note that visiting the temples often involve a lot of walking around even after opting for public transport. However, you won’t mind the walk in the beautiful streets of Kyoto.
  •  Time- most of the temples and shrines close early around 5-6pm. So start your day early to cover as many temples and shrines as possible. Leave the evenings for exploring food and drinks and Karaoke.
  • The locals are friendly- remember unlike the smaller cities of Japan, some people actually understand a bit of English. Being Japanese, the people are very friendly and helpful. So, don’t hesitate to ask for help if you need.
  • Try the Japanese food- Japanese food is famous all over the world and there is a reason behind it. It’s Oishī (delicious)! Thus, other than the fresh sushi, also try every other food you can find.
  • Enjoy Karaoke- This is everywhere in Japan and if you are in Japan, this is a must.
  • Enjoy the pace of the city- Kyoto is the land of people who enjoy peace and beauty. The streets display a natural charm and just strolling around or sitting in a small empty shrine can have a calming effect on your mind. Adapt to this pace to enjoy its true beauty.
  • Last but not the least- over any city in mainland Japan, always, always and always choose Kyoto. Trust me, you are going to regret it if you spend your mini vacation in Tokyo instead of Kyoto. Tokyo is cool but so are many cities in the world. Kyoto has successfully blended its traditional beauties into the modern necessities of life. It is the perfect mix of the old and the new and this is why you can stay here not just for a weekend but forever.

Few tips for travelling to Japan

  •  While the larger and touristy places have some English speaking population, the smaller cities have almost none. It is extremely useful to know someone who speaks Japanese if you are going to visit these cities.
  • Japan is not a small country. It’s divided into multiple islands and each boasts different beauties. It is useful to chart out which one you would like to visit.
  • Understand the railway system well- there are 4-5 types of trains. Mostly, they distinguish themselves based on speed and thus not all the trains stop at all the stations. There is local, semi- express, express and of course the Shinkansen.
  •  Do attempt to visit during autumn or cherry blossom or some festival. The Golden week (Hamamatsu Matsuri) is a good time to visit Hamamatsu, fall is the perfect time for Kyoto, summer is perfect for climbing Mt. Fuji and winter perfect to experience its snow from a distance.
  • Try the snacks- Japan is a country with endless variety of snacks. Many of these are absolutely delicious. The train stations often have many shops. Remember each city offers different types of snacks. Thus, don’t wait for the last city to buy them. Keep experimenting and buying them as you travel from one city to another.
  • Learn to use Chopsticks- so for many this might sound trivial but in most of the cities chopsticks are all that is available during a meal. Forget your forks, spoons and knives and be prepared to use these sticks.
  •  Respect the culture- the Japanese are very well mannered, polite and humble. Kindly return the favour. Don’t insult their customs or traditions and try to reflect kindness and helpfulness in your behaviour.

Click on the pictures below and follow my journey visually! Don’t forget to follow me on instagram (madhurimadutta12) for more pictures!

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