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Walking the Lines of History: Discovering Belfast’s Present Amidst its Troubled Past

Walking the Lines of History: Discovering Belfast’s Present Amidst its Troubled Past

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Have you ever visited a city where peace is a recent phenomenon? So recent that you wonder if it has made it to the history books yet. So recent that your own parents couldn’t have visited this city when they were your age. So recent that you distinctly feel the uneasy undercurrents of the past as you move through the city. Welcome to Belfast. It’s just like in the movies, except it’s not. It’s more raw, more intense, and more fascinating.

I had watched Belfast, the movie, on a fine Saturday evening in Singapore. It was sobering and a good lesson in history. But nothing had prepared me for the real trip to Belfast.

I have always believed that cities make you feel something. I find it hard to describe in words but each city has a unique energy. If you pause, breathe, and soak it all in, it speaks to you. You start to feel the heart of the city. Sometimes it’s lively and vibrant. Sometimes it’s safe and convenient. Sometimes it’s highly capitalistic and sometimes the shadow of rebellion against capitalism shines through. Sometimes it’s community-centric and sometimes it’s highly individualistic, and so on and so forth.

Arriving in Belfast from Galway, a city with good craic (as the Irish would say!), was an interesting feeling. I knew right away Belfast felt different, very different, despite being only a few hours of train ride away.

At first, it felt like the city was built for and by people who rebelled against the norm, ones who painted bold murals on the walls or jumped up in the air to jokingly show a middle finger when a tourist attempts to take a picture of the city streets. There was certainly an undercurrent in the air, even though on the face of it, it appeared to be a lovely city.

As I delved deeper into the history of the city through the Black taxi tour, I began to understand the undercurrents a little more.

What is the Belfast Black taxi tour?

This tour explores the political aspect of the city’s history throughout The Troubles in the 1960s until the present day. It explores the conflict between the two prominent communities of Belfast and features prominent sites such as Peaceline- or Belfast’s own “Berlin Wall”. You will be chauffeured around in a black cab and you will hear the history of Belfast from the locals who have lived through it. And yes, you can get down from the cab at certain locations to see the murals upfront and take pictures.

A troubled past

If you have read or heard anything about Northern Ireland’s past, you have likely heard of The Troubles. The Troubles were a period of intense conflict and political unrest that lasted roughly 30 years till the late 1990s. The conflict primarily arose from deep-rooted divisions between the nationalist and unionist communities.

Nationalists, mainly Catholic, sought the reunification of Northern Ireland with the Republic of Ireland, while unionists, mainly Protestant, desired to maintain Northern Ireland’s position within the United Kingdom. It’s worth noting that despite the religious backdrop, the conflicts were primarily political in nature.

The continued intense violence created deep segregation between the two communities, literally and figuratively.

Peace Walls: Belfast’s very own “Berlin Wall”

In several parts of Belfast and beyond, high walls termed as The Peace Walls separate the Catholic part of Belfast from the adjoining Protestant neighbourhood. The wall stands 45 feet tall, three times higher than the Berlin Wall.

As we walked alongside the walls as part of our tour, our guide pointed out one of the writings in particular “The UDA shot my father but I forgive you.” Among all the writings on the wall, this encapsulates the spirit of the present day Northern Ireland, albeit the irony of this sentence written on a separation wall didn’t escape me.

The Good Friday Agreement of 1998 provided a framework for reconciliation and peacebuilding in Northern Ireland. This may have marked a turning point in the conflict but as you walk through Belfast, it becomes evident that truly leaving the past behind is going to take longer.

Which school did you go to?

Even today, a vast majority of neighbourhoods are strictly catholic or protestant neighbourhoods. Unionist or Catholic flags flying in front of the houses clearly mark the identity of the neighbourhood.

A few integrated communities exist but they are yet to be the norm. If you grew up in a Catholic neighbourhood, you would go to a Catholic school, and live your life surrounded by people from your side of the community. And vice versa.

An easy way to find out which segment of the population one belongs to is to ask them which school they went to – our tour guide tells us. Catholic school names are usually of a distinct format and easy to recognise, he adds on.

“Do people marry across the communities?” – I asked. “Yes, they do! But you see, that’s when they really need the integrated housing community. Imagine you are a Catholic and you move to a Protestant area to be with your partner. But your child would then go to a Protestant school and grow up surrounded by that community. Of course, most people are not okay with that.” – Our guide responds.

Akin to integrated housing, there are integrated schools too. Famous Irish celebrities such as Liam Neeson have become the face of integrated schooling, supporting this system as the way forward. “This is of course what we need. But it’s going to take time.” – our guide says with a slightly sad look in his eyes.

The dual narrative: the hope for peace and the political marches that strengthen division

Listening to the inter-community marriages and the integrated schooling frameworks made me hopeful for this country. Quickly thereafter, the guide went on to tell us about a variety of political marches that take place each year from April all the way to August.

Political groups from both sides of the aisle march around the city, celebrating their “heroes”, commemorating their cause, and boldly showcasing their side of the story. The 12th of July parade by the Orange Order is known to be one of the most significant and politically charged parades of the year. In fact, parts of the city are blocked off on this day and the parade is not allowed to pass through certain Catholic quarters.

On one hand, the political marches are an unabashed display of Northern Ireland’s violent past and the deep division between the two communities. On the other hand, most people want to leave the past behind and move forward.

Questions flooded my mind. How can these two co-exist in reality? Aren’t the political marches a constant reminder of the past that separates the two communities? Don’t they stir up resentment towards the other community? “Yes, they do” – our guide softly answered.

Peace is a recent phenomenon, perhaps time will heal all wounds?

1998 was only 25 years ago – let us not forget that. Peace here is a recent phenomenon. Our guide is old enough to have lived through the troubled times.

When we asked our guide if the history books of Northern Ireland are biased towards one community or the other, he paused for a minute and asked “At what point does something become history?” It’s a fair question and a gentle reminder of the nascency of the peace we see in Northern Ireland today.

When my parents were my age, they couldn’t have safely visited this city. But today, solo travellers like me easily enter and explore the city, learn about its history, mix with the locals, and have a wonderful trip. Colourful restaurants and pubs adorn the city. Tourist hotels and tour companies are flourishing. And tourism is one of the growing sectors in the economy, especially with shows such as Game of Thrones being shot in this country. If that’s not progress, what is?

Useful information for a trip to Belfast

As a traveler, Belfast is one of the most interesting cities you will probably visit! So if you do plan a trip to Belfast, here is some useful information.

Recommended accommodation:

Botanical Backpackers – I really can not recommend this place enough! It has the coziest living rooms and common areas. The folks who run the hostel are incredibly friendly and helpful and they will help you in whatever you do need! This place truly felt like a home away from home.

If you are looking for something fancier, check out Airbnbs or hotels such as the Europa Hotel or The Fitzwilliam Hotel Belfast.

Transport:

Buses run across the city and you can pay by contactless credit/debit cards in the buses. You can also use the trains when needed and tickets can be booked online or at the station.

If you are looking for day trips from Belfast, you can either drive down or book a guided day tour which picks you up from and drops you back to Belfast. A trip to Giant’s Causeway is of course an absolute must!

Food and drinks

A few of the places we tried out and loved: Revolución de Cuba for Cuban tapas dinner and cocktails, Maggie Mays Belfast Cafe for a good ol’ Irish breakfast, Kelly’s Cellars and The Points for the Irish pub experience.

Other tips

  • Remember you can experience all four seasons in a day here. Even if you are visiting in summer, remember to carry layers, and especially a rain jacket. It’s not a question of whether it will rain or not, rather when it will rain and for how long it will rain.
  • In terms of visa – Northern Ireland is currently part of the UK and you can visit it with a standard UK visa or as long as you have the right to visit the UK.
  • Regular trains run between Belfast and Dublin. If you want to hop over to Ireland from here, you can book yourself a train. There is no passport control at the train station – unlike the airports.
  • And most importantly, walk around the city and soak in the vibe of The Titanic City!
Falling in love with Bologna, the Italian city with a unique personality

Falling in love with Bologna, the Italian city with a unique personality

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More than 65 million tourists visit Italy per year but only a small fraction of them make it to Bologna. Naturally, I got quite a few questions from locals about why I picked Bologna as one of my travel destinations. 

I had first read about Bologna in a Jack Reacher thriller during my high school days. The description of the city captured my imagination and convinced me that if and when I make it to Italy, Bologna would be on the list. More recently, the soulful episodes on Emilia-Romagna hosted by Stanley Tucci in his “Searching for Italy” series gave me another reason. Hence, after my road trip through Tuscany with friends, Bologna was one of the cities I picked for solo travel. And the only regret I have is not spending enough time here. 

So what makes Bologna special? And should everyone visit it?

The historic charm

Bologna university

Archiginnasio di Bologna

Bologna is home to the oldest university in the world. Yes, you heard that right – not just in Europe, in the whole world. And yes, it’s older than Oxford!

Bologna feels like a city designed around the university. In short, a university town. The university has several buildings spread across the city centre. Throughout the city, you are more than likely to encounter a few of the 85,000 students who study there every year.

As I stepped into the publicly accessible areas of Bologna University, I was transported into another world. Galleries and walls are decorated with inscriptions and celebratory monuments of the professors of the university and coats of arms of students. The lecture theaters and libraries are charming and inviting. One could only imagine that calling this place their alma mater would indeed be an honor.

Bologna’s historic charm goes beyond the university. From Santo Stefano Basilica and Piazza Maggiore to Portico di San Luca, history is hiding in plain sight everywhere in the city.

The modern convenience

Inside a bus

I took a train from Pisa to reach Bologna. Upon reaching, I found my way from the train station to the bus stop easily, read the information boards at the bus stop to understand which direction is the right one, hopped on the bus with all my luggage, paid for tickets by tapping my debit card on the machine (you can also pay by coins or use the transport card locals use), and reached my Airbnb without any hassle.

Buses run on time as shown on Google Maps or as written at the bus stops. Taxis were easy to find using the TaxiClick Easy app and almost everyone spoke enough English to help me out.

It seems like small things but in Florence and Pisa I actually didn’t pay for two bus rides (not that I am proud of it) because I couldn’t figure out how to buy a ticket after boarding the bus. 

Buses in Bologna apparently run the whole night according to students. Perhaps not all buses and definitely not in the same frequency but at least some do run late into the night. 

The train station has an airconditioned room with comfortable seats which serve as the waiting area, unlike most other Italian train stations where you have to wait near the platforms. Each platform has several boards to show you where each coach of the train would stop. You can check your ticket for the coach number beforehand and stand at the right place instead of rushing with luggage after the train has arrived.

Trees have been planted along many of the roads, providing much needed respite from the heat during the peak summer months. Ultimately, it’s a combination of all these small things that make it not just a city good for visiting but a city that’s ideal for living.

The food

Emilia-Romagna is called The Food Valley and for good reason! It is home to many of the culinary specialities that have led to Italy’s worldwide fame: Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Parma ham, traditional balsamic vinegar from Modena and Reggio Emilia, Culatello salami, and tagliatelle and tortellini pasta. To date, Emilia-Romagna boasts 44 PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) products. 

And while Spaghetti Bolognese is not from Bologna or even from Italy (sorry fans!), Bologna is home to many traditional delicacies such as Tagliatelle al Ragù, Tortellini in brodo, and Mortadella among many others.

Tagliatele Ragu

Tagliatelle al Ragù

I had a lavish meal at Ristorante Grassilli where the server specifically told me not to put cheese on my Tortellini in brodo. Of course, I obliged! I was surprised at how simple and yet comforting the dish was.

Tortellini in brodo

Meals in Italy are a leisurely affair. They are not meant to be rushed. Takeaways (whether for food or coffee) are not a beloved concept, at least traditionally. As such you can easily spend a few hours on a meal and the waiters will never rush you either.

I was surprised to see Grassilli’s waiters turning away some walk-in groups because the tables were apparently reserved. I spent at least 1-1.5 hours in the restaurant and many tables were empty throughout that time. In fast-paced countries like Singapore, they would give you the table and tell you there is a dining time limit of 60-90 minutes. But not in Italy, and certainly not at the heart of its Food Valley! 

The natural beauty

Access to unmanicured nature is one of the things I value with all my heart. It’s what I loved about Hong Kong and it’s what I truly miss in Singapore. 

My Airbnb in Bologna was about 20 minutes bus drive from the city centre and was located right next to a national park. In fact, you could see parts of the national park from our balcony.

I spent a few hours hiking in the national park and catching wonderful views of the city from the top. Although we didn’t stay until sunset, we could only imagine how captivating the sunsets from the top would be.

The people

A city is ultimately defined by its people. And the people of Bologna are as vibrant as its history. 

My Airbnb host was an American lady who married an Italian and settled down here. She and her young daughter gave me a warm welcome and made sure I was comfortable. In the same house, I met a lady from the Czech Republic who was travelling with her daughter and a guy from France who was studying in Bologna. I ended up talking to them late into the evening. The next day I went hiking with the lady and her daughter.

Everyone I encountered during my journey was friendly and helpful. Most people spoke enough English for at least basic communication.

The vibe

Streets of Bologona

Bologna is nicknamed “La Rossa” (“The Red”). The left leaning roots run deep. As far as the middle ages, Bologna rebelled to remain an independent “commune” during the Holy Roman empire. Through the decades, it continued to resist fascism and kept the Italian Communist Party in power long after WWII. As you walk around the city, graffiti showing “Smash Capitalism” or street art demonstrating communist symbols is not uncommon to come across. 

Bologna reminded me of my own hometown, Kolkata (India) where intellectual debates, thoughtful conversations on societal issues, and speaking up for what you believe in are highly encouraged.

On a lighter note, you can feel the city’s heart beating even late into the night. From outdoor movie nights at the main Piazza to students hitting up restaurants & bars late night (even on weekdays), student life indeed shapes much of Bologna’s culture.

Could I live here?

And finally, whenever I visit a city I ask myself if I could live there. While Florence makes you gasp with awe at artistic creations, you are constantly walking among a swath of tourists. The Tuscan countryside lets you slow down and experience “dolche far niente” but the Tuscan towns are almost too perfect and idyllic. It feels like you are in a dream, walking through history but at some point, I would like to come out of the dream to a more ordinary life. Bologna offers just that. 

In Bologna historic charm blends with modern-day conveniences seamlessly. The city inspires you to read, think, and have fun all at once! 

The vibe cuts right through the city. You don’t have to “go” anywhere in particular to experience its vibe. You just have to show up at Bologna and let the city run its magic on you.

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Pro tips

Nicole’s Airbnb

The view from my Airbnb’s balcony

After reading this article, if you are planning to visit Bologna and experience its vibe, here are some tips:

  • Restaurants are plenty but some of the popular ones can be fully booked even on a weekday afternoon. I reserved a table at Ristorante Grassilli by contacting them beforehand via Facebook Messenger. A lot of walk-ins were turned away because all tables were reserved.
  • If you are looking for a place to stay, I couldn’t recommend Nicole’s Airbnb enough (pictures above). It’s a charming house featuring a balcony with a great view.
  • Download the TaxiClick Easy app to make your life easier, especially if you need a late-night cab ride.
  • If you aren’t travelling to Modena or Parma, then Bologna is a great place to buy high-quality Balsamic vinegar, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and cured meats, all of which you can most likely bring back home with you!
Siem Reap kids

The incredible story of a tuk-tuk driver on a mission to teach English to Cambodian kids

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At first glance, Kim Heak appears to be just another tuk-tuk (auto rickshaw) driver in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Over the last decade, Siem Reap has rapidly grown into an exotic destination for cultural tourism, courtesy of the famous temples of Angkor, especially Angkor Wat.

At the lack of convenient public transportation, numerous locals have taken up the opportunity to provide transportation services to this growing influx of tourists. Kim Heak is one of them but he is also so much more. He is the host of an adorable homestay, a guide, and a man on a mission to teach English to about 70 odd village kids for free. His aim is to empower them to lead a better life by providing them with the same opportunities that the city kids are offered.

I encountered Kim when looking for a homestay in Siem Reap, hoping to avoid the crowds of Pub Street and looking to experience the true Khmer lifestyle. About two weeks before my trip to Siem Reap, I suddenly remembered that I was yet to book accommodation. I messaged him late at night while browsing through a website (Homestay.com) and his prompt and warm response convinced me that I needed to look no further.

About two weeks later, I arrived at Siem Reap and was greeted by a smiling face at the airport. Kim welcomed me, picked up my bag, and took me to his tuk-tuk (a traditional auto-rickshaw). We drove through the streets of Siem Reap and entered Chrey village, where his homestay is located.

Away from the crowds of Pub Street

Most travellers visit Siem Reap with the aim of touring Angkor Wat, which is undeniably a magnificent sight. Almost inevitably, they decide to stay in a hotel or hostel around Pub Street, the most touristy and happening area in Siem Reap. While Pub Street and its surrounding areas are filled with bars, cafes, restaurants, hostels and hotels, the sheer amount of commercialisation masks the true characteristics of a regular Cambodian lifestyle.

Chrey village is nothing like Pub Street. Quite the opposite in fact. It’s a small village about 20-25 mins from the city centre. The houses here resemble typical village houses found in most developing economies around Asia. The roads are dusty and there are only a few local shops around the village. Kids run around the village freely as do a bunch of dogs who also consider it their neighbourhood.

This, I believe, is how the majority of Cambodians live, even today.

As Kim drives by,  passers-by wave at him. Everyone seems to know him. Everyone seems to know everyone in this village.

As soon as I arrive at Kim’s place, I am greeted by 3 smiling kids who jump around happily. The kids offer me some raw mango that they were casually munching on. I decide to take my luggage to my room after finishing the mangoes.

Life is tough. Life is simple.

My homestay in Chrey village

My room is much bigger than I expected. It’s strangely clean and modern given the surrounding areas. The bed is even decorated with flower petals.

My room is bigger than expected

As I walk out and take a look at Kim and his family’s hut which is as primitive as it can be, I am suddenly drowned in a strong sense of guilt. Then, I play a quick reasoning game with myself. I convince myself that I’m helping their family by staying in this room and opting for their services. This is their source of livelihood.

Since it’s already evening, I decide to take a walk around the village and not venture too far. Two of Kim’s kids join me on the walk. They may speak only a few words of English but their passion for communicating with me is endless. They continue to try with the few words they know.

The girl is relatively more mature than her younger brother. The young boy is joyful and naughty. He would run ahead of us and then lie down on the dusty road and we would have to pull him up and drag him along. He loved this game. The girl was happy to just hold my hand and walk with me. Occasionally, she would kiss my hand and happily jump around.

In the absence of street lights, I relied on these young kids to bring me back to their place. They did not disappoint.

The rest of the evening was spent with Kim and his friends, who were building a shed beside the house. Some of them seemed hard at work while some others (including myself) devoured the fresh spring rolls given to us.

Home cooked Khmer food

A plate full of traditional Khmer food completed the day and I decided to hit the bed.

Life may not be easy here but it is simple. The bonds between a family and a community are strong. With the help of each other, they make the best out of their lives. Their difficulties seem to ease up when they gather every evening and hang out over some local food and drinks. From my bed, I could hear the chatter and the following laughter. This supportive community keeps them happy despite their day-to-day struggles. It’s what keeps them going.

‘I never brought my family to this waterfall’

The waterfall is unimpressive but provides much-needed respite from the heat

The next day Kim takes me to a waterfall and a temple far far away. We drive in his tuk-tuk for a while and from a certain point, we switch to a motorbike as the tuk-tuk is not suitable for the upcoming road. As we settle down at a restaurant after a dip in the waterfall, Kim opens up about his life.

I ask him about his English school, why he started it and how he runs it.

“I never had the opportunity to learn English while growing up. I did not attend a school in the city. I did not get the same jobs as the city kids. I want a better future for the children in my village.” – Kim tells me.

I wonder how the kids afford the English school. He informs me that the school is free. He does not charge anything to the kids. About 70+ kids from the nearby villages come to his school.

 

Kim tells me about his school over a plate of Fish Amok

Food is served and over a delicious plate of Fish Amok, we discuss how he runs his school. He converted one of the rooms in the house into a mini school. He admits that he does not earn much but he tries to save as much as possible and uses the resources to buy stationery as well as organise school trips for the kids.

“Who teaches them English?” – I ask curiously as Kim seems to be busy with his duties as a homestay host and as a tour guide.

“There is a girl from the nearby village who I know, usually she comes to teach. A few years earlier, there was a foreigner who travelled to Siem Reap and stayed at my house. He decided to stay back in Siem Reap for a while. Often, he volunteers and teaches the kids as well. Sometimes other travellers volunteer too.” – Kim continues.

“I want to buy a computer and teach the children how to use it..but no money…may be someday..” – He says.

Lunch is coming to an end and he shows me some pictures he snapped of me earlier in the day. I thank him and ask if his family visits the waterfall often. It seems to be a good escape from the scorching heat of Siem Reap.

“I never brought my family to the waterfall” – Kim replies with a hint of sadness in his voice. He proceeds to inform me that they need a car to visit the waterfall as the whole family would not fit on the motorbike. Hiring a car for a day is too expensive. He can’t afford it.

What struck me right then and there is the daily sacrifice he makes. He can actually afford to hire a car for a day but he chooses to spend that money on his school instead. What’s better is that he does not even see it as a sacrifice. He happily does it. To him, it seems perfectly natural.

I am suddenly filled with an enormous amount of respect for him. After all, these are the kind of human beings that struggle against all odds to help the society. They happily make sacrifices on a daily basis, hoping that their sacrifices can uplift others and guide them towards a happier life.

Chinese New Year celebration in a Khmer village

That night I came home to the sight of a pig being roasted, as preparation for Chinese New Year. Part of his family traces back to a Chinese lineage, Kim tells me. “Tomorrow lots of people will come over to our house to celebrate. You are welcome to join.”

Pig being roasted at the backyard

The pig is being roasted at the backyard, not in the most sanitary environment, I must admit. After a few hours, they hang the pig on a stick and place the stick under a shed. The shed covers it from the top but it remains exposed to open air from all other angles. The pig is to reside there for the night and the following day, they will roast the pig again, before serving it to guests.

The pig hanging here is somehow a funny sight

The sight of the pig hanging on the stick, somehow, was a hilarious sight. I joke about it while hanging out with Kim and his family around a small table, in the courtyard. Most of his family doesn’t speak English but each of them are delighted to meet me. Kim, being the kind-hearted host he is, takes up the task of translating the important parts of the conversation to English, to make me feel welcome.

One of the elders suddenly asks me if I know of a certain Hindi (Bollywood song). I reply in the negative but offer to play some good Bollywood music for him instead. He is super excited. As I play a famous Hindi song, he suddenly stands up and starts casually dancing to the beats.

Laughter ensues. Happiness is in the air. Time stands still. Suddenly, language is no longer a barrier. Here, in an unknown tiny village in Cambodia, an Indian girl celebrates Chinese New Year with a Khmer family while listening to Hindi music. These are the moments that travellers like me live for.

Kim was not only an excellent tour guide but a thoughtful host. He made sure I feel part of his family. He gave me a taste of the joys and sorrows of their daily life and for this, I am forever grateful.

Meeting the kids and saying goodbye

Over the next two days, Kim showed me the famous temples of Angkor, the Phare Circus (which I highly recommend), Pub Street and the nearby fishing village. During the Chinese New Year, the kids of his school were also given holidays. On the last day, I finally had the opportunity to meet them.

The kids at school

As I handed out chocolates to them after their English lesson, each of them smiled and thanked me. They ran around playfully and curiously looked at me and the other fellow travellers who were staying in Kim’s homestay.

Saying goodbye is never easy but I took solace in knowing that I now have another group of people who I can consider my family, people who will always welcome me back with open arms.

A few passing thoughts

Cambodia, once famous for the glorious Khmer empire, today, is a country torn apart by civil war. It is also a country that shows tremendous promise.

It’s a country where you not only witness the after-effects of civil war up close but also come across magnificent people who are dedicating their lives to rebuilding the economy, the society and the country.

I have never really donated large amounts of money to charities, especially since it’s hard to determine the legitimate ones and trace the impact of the donation. But here, you have a chance to contribute to the education of the kids on a first-hand basis. You are welcome to buy them books, stationery, and anything else that might be useful. You can stay with Kim and teach the kids if you like. You can see the impact of your contributions. You can empower these kids with education and when they grow up, hopefully, they can contribute towards the development of the country.

This is a great time to visit Cambodia. You not only get to appreciate the beauty of Angkor Wat but the resilience and the warmth of the Cambodian people.

Cambodians won’t just welcome you to their homes. They will open their hearts to you. If you dare to venture beyond the comforts of the usual tourist areas, you might just form an unforgettable connection and become part of a local family.

After all, isn’t that what travel is all about? As the wise Anthony Bourdain once said, “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you, it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”

Note for travellers:

You can contact Kim at kimheak.horm@yahoo.com or book his homestay via homestay.com. It is worth noting that there is an additional charge for using air conditioning in the room but I think the fan is usually sufficient.

Zhangjiajie National Park

The Avatar mountains are real: a journey to Zhangjiajie

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Buried deep in the world’s highest populated country, China, lies an otherworldly landscape. Thousands of striking monoliths covered with lush green foliage rise from the ground and blast through the clouds to reach heaven’s gates. The landscape is surreal to say the least.

In 1982, China decided to build a national park to preserve this scenic area and thus the Zhangjiajie National Park was born. Word has it that this was the landscape that inspired James Cameron to create the Hallelujah Mountains in the award-winning film, Avatar. Was Pandora real after all? A 20 something girl decided to find out.

Zhangjiajie National Park

Note: There are many places to cover in Zhangjiajie National Park and many routes you can take. I would highly recommend taking a map and planning out a route before heading to the park. You can opt for trails that include a ton of hiking but due to my never-to-recover ankle injury, I followed a route with minimal hiking and it is perfectly feasible.

Zhangjiajie National Park – day 1

Tianzi mountain and Yuanjiajie (Avatar mountains, sky bridge and Bailong elevator)

A bit of background: I came across Zhangjiajie National Park about 6-7 years ago while looking for unbelievable places around the world. I printed out a picture of the Hallelujah mountains and pasted it in my so called bucket-list diary. I promised myself I would get there one day and 7 years later, when I realised I can actually make this happen, I didn’t hold back.

I knew I won’t have a lot of time which would mean I will have to spend two full days travelling in and out of Zhangjiajie and will get only 2 days in Zhangjiajie. I prepared myself for this exhausting journey and asked my Chinese friend who lives in Shanghai to join me. I hadn’t met her since our graduation and this would be a nice opportunity for a reunion while also exploring a magical destination. She agreed and we both flew down to Zhangjiajie for the long weekend.

Cable car ride to Tianzi mountain

Zhangjiajie National Park entrance

We woke up early in the morning, grabbed some quick food along the way and along with hundreds of other tourists (mostly local), walked through the chaotic gates of Zhangjiajie National Park.

There is a station for all the shuttles right beside the entrance. We took the one that goes to Tianzi mountain which dropped us near the cable car station. The cable cars don’t stop at the station, they just slow down so that travellers can hop on it. The cable car journey was our first glance a the magnificent landscape of Zhangjiajie.

When you dream about a place for years, sometimes you wonder if the place will live up to the expectation in real life. Will it make you gasp at the very first sight? Will it make you fall in love at the first glance? Will it make your long journey worth it? For me, Zhangjiajie was a sure shot yes for each of these questions.

cable car ride to Tianzi mountain

cable car ride to Tianzi mountain

As the cable car passed through scenic mountains and gigantic stone pillars that went on for hundreds of meters, we couldn’t decide whether to simply sit and stare at this unbelievable sight or whether to take out my camera and capture every single inch of it. This was Tianzi mountain, our first stop at Zhangjiajie National Park.

Somewhere between gasping at the scenery and snapping pictures, the cable car dropped us at a station. We followed the road and it led to one lookout point after another. Eventually, we reached the thousand-meter cliff, another scenic viewpoint. The plethora of crowds here made it nearly impossible to take pictures!

Plethora of crowds at Zhangjiajie

Plethora of crowds at Zhangjiajie

The Avatar mountains of Yuanjiajie

We pretty much followed the crowd which led us to a bus station and the bus dropped us at Yuanjiajie. The most famous attractions of Yuanjiajie include the Sky Pillar of Hallelujah mountains (think Avatar), a natural bridge, and Bailong elevator.

The Southern Sky Pillar in Yuanjiajie is said to be the prototype of the “Hallelujah Mountains” in the famous Hollywood film Avatar. In January 2010, the Southern Sky Pillar was officially renamed as Hallelujah Mountains. It arises 1074 meters above sea level, over 150 meters in height. In the shape of a pillar connecting heaven and earth, this peak serves as a defining geographical landmark of Yuanjiajie Scenic Area.

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I finally ticked this place off my bucket list! Over the last few days, I took a short trip to Zhangjiajie national park in China. Word has it that this is the place that inspired James Cameron for the movie Avatar. Whether the rumours are true or not, we may never know but standing in front of these gigantic structures will make you believe you have indeed landed on another planet. If there is one place that absolutely deserves a place in every bucket list, it is this. . . . . . #zhangjiajie #nationalpark #unesco #china #chinatourism #avatarmountains #surreal #visitchina #beautifuldestinations #neverstopexploring #exploretocreate #tinypeopleinbigplaces #passionpassport #traveldeeper #travelawesome #travelwriter #explorechina #passionpassport #lonelyplanet #bbctravel #womenwhotravel #wearetravelgirls

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Other than the Sky Pillar, Yuanjiajie offers various other platforms that give way to sweeping vistas of odd stone peaks in various shapes and sizes. I distinctly recall a set of pillars being in the shape of Mount Roraima of Venezuela/Brazil/Guyana.

Another fascinating sight is the sky bridge which stretches across two mountains. While it may not appear special at first, when you think of this natural bridge being formed at a height of about 350 meter and linking two mountains, it is easy to mistake this it for a bridge to heaven.

The natural sky bridge of Yuanjiajie

The natural sky bridge of Yuanjiajie

While the scenery in Yuanjiajie is breathtaking, this area also suffers from severe mass tourism and some of them are not as considerate as you might want them to be. It is not uncommon to see big groups of people being led by someone with a loud microphone, thereby ruining the Pandora like feel of Yuanjiajie.

When the noise does stop though, the pin drop silence, the mighty wind at a height of thousands of metres above sea level, and hundreds of unique stone pillars rising to the sky all around will convince you that you are indeed in another world.

Bailong elevator

Bailong elevator is officially the world’s tallest outdoor elevator. It’s a cliff-hugging elevator that takes you up and down one of these gigantic rocks of Zhangjiajie. While it is a nice experience to have, the elevator is extremely crowded and the glass is a bit dirty. It isn’t as scary as you would imagine but it’s not a bad experience.

Tujia food and cultural show

The charm of Xianxi

The charm of Xianxi cultural show

Evenings in Wulingyuan are spent in either dining or watching cultural shows. We bought tickets for a famous show called the charm of Xiangxi and it truly exceeded our expectations. The show went on to introduce the different minority groups of China and showcase their lifestyles and traditions through performances. From fire dances to soothing Chinese folklores, this show had it all.

We returned to our hostel and found a restaurant nearby to try local food. Till date, I can not recommend Tujia food enough! It has the perfect level of spice (not the mouth-numbing spice of Sichuan but just enough) and almost everything tastes fantastic. Even today, I continue to search for Tujia food in every country but unfortunately, it isn’t as popular as I had hoped.

Tujia food

Tujia food

Zhangjiajie National Park – day 2

Golden Whip Stream

Although I had very less time in Zhangjiajie, I had heard so much about the Golden Whip Stream, I didn’t dare to miss it. The second day, while my friend got stuck in the hostel with some urgent office work, I took the map and headed to the Golden Whip Stream for a quick tour.

During the bus journey, something amazing happened. Two high-school Chinese girls started talking to me, curious about the only non-Chinese person on-board. After a 15 minute discussion, the cheerful girls asked me if they can click a picture with me!

Now I had seen this happen plenty of times in India with foreigners but as an Indian, I had never really experienced it myself. Surely I would have felt awkward if random people on the street tried it but after the conversation with these friendly girls, I didn’t really mind. We clicked a selfie right before I got off at the bus stop of the Golden Whip Stream.

Entrance to Golden Whip Stream

Entrance to Golden Whip Stream

Golden Whip Stream is a narrow stream peacefully passing between a forest on one side and the humongous stone pillars on the other side. The initial walk is a bit disappointing but as you venture deeper into the woods, the crowd begins to disappear. Suddenly you are surrounded by dense forest on one side and humongous sandstones on the other side.

Unlike the other parts of Zhangjiajie where you get to observe these formations from a sky-high wooden platform, here you actually have the chance of looking up at them. This is where you can truly feel the scale and grandeur of Zhangjiajie.

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Travel isn't always pretty. Sometimes it's hard work. Sometimes it's spending 2 days in flights and airports just to spend 2 days in places like this. Sometimes it's compromising on sleep even though your body wants to drop dead on the bed, just so that you can catch that sunrise. Sometimes it's almost missing your flight because of language barriers. At the end of the day, it's about putting yourself out there and letting the world takes it's course. And most often, you will be rewarded with wonderful memories that will last a lifetime. . . . . #zhangjiajie #unexploredchina #china #visitchina #hunan #wulingyuan #chinatourism #offthebeatenpath #zhangjiajienationalforestpark #asia #traveldeeper #passionpassport #lonelyplanetchina #explorechina #neverstopexploring #globelletravels #wearetravelgirls #travelawesome #beautifuldestination #unesco

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The second part of the day was spent in exploring the famous Glass Bridge of Zhangjiajie, Zhangjiajie Canyon and Baofeng lake.This deserves it’s own post, so lookout for it.

Demystifying Zhangjiajie – how were the Avatar Mountains formed

Now, if you are looking at the pictures wondering how on earth does such landscape even exist, the following is for you. This is for the geography buffs, if you aren’t one, you might want to scroll through.

About 400 million years ago, quartz sandstone stratum was formed in this area. About 250 million years ago, carbonate formation such as limestone and dolomite were formed, and the crust uplifted to become land in about 210 million years ago.

Zhangjiajie National Park

Zhangjiajie National Park

The Himalayas movement dated from about 65 million years ago has formed a three-level planation surface in the region with the altitudes of 1,200 metres, 1000 metres, and 800 metres respectively.

The earth’s crust uplifted intermittently and the cap strata above the quartz sandstone was eroded off. Along some interlaced joints flowing water cut down in the strata and split the ancient planation surface into primary mesas and peak-shaped ridges of different sizes, and along joints the marginal parts were split into the rudiments of the rock dykes and the stone pillars.

Regional tilting and uplift continued and resulted in the stunning landscape we see today, consisting of dykes, natural bridges and arches, valleys, and stone pillars.

One for the bucket lists

Zhangjiajie National Park

A trip to Zhangjiajie is like none other. The scenery makes you gasp. It convinces you that you are on another planet. The culture is unique, with a number of minority groups each with their distinct characteristics. The food is different from other parts of China and absolutely delicious. If there is one place that must absolutely be on your bucket list, it should be this surreal place known as Zhangjiajie.

P.S: If you want to find out all the practical information needed to visit Zhangjiajie, check out my post on: Everything you need to know about visiting Zhangjiajie National Park.

Entrance to Golden Whip Stream

Everything you need to know about Zhangjiajie National Park

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Zhangjiajie national park is home to the breathtaking monoliths that rise from the ground for thousands of meters and shoots straight through the clouds. Word has it that this was the landscape that inspired James Cameron to create the Hallelujah Mountains in the award-winning film, Avatar. It is located in Hunan province of China.

So, here is everything you need to know for visiting Zhangjiajie National Park. If you want to read about my journey in Zhangjiajie, refer to this article: The Avatar mountains are real: welcome to Zhangjiajie

How to get to Zhangjiajie National Park?

First things first, how do you get here? Zhangjiajie has its very own airport and there are flights from many major cities like Guangzhou, Shanghai etc. Once you land in the city of Zhangjiajie, you have two options: either stay in the city or stay in the scenic town of Wulingyuan, which is right beside the national park.

Where to stay in Zhangjiajie?

While some people prefer to stay in the city which is closer to the airport, if your main aim is to visit the national park, I highly recommend saying in Wulingyuan. It’s a tiny little town at the foothills of Zhangjiajie national park. The hotels and hostels are surrounded by mountains and there are just enough things to ensure travellers have a great time.

We stayed in Wulingyuantuniu Youth Hostel. It was about 3-4 min walk to the entrance of the national park. For US$30/night we got a comfortable twin bedroom and a friendly lady at the reception who will happily help you plan your trip.

Accommodation in Wulingyuan

There were cute little local restaurants, supermarkets, and massage parlours around the hostel that stayed open late into the night. Travellers hiked around the whole day and enjoyed the delicious food at night, over hearty conversations. There was something about the lazy vibe and the fresh air that allured both locals and foreigners alike.

Zhangjiajie National Park – what you need to know

The national park covers an enormous area and requires 2-3 days to cover. Fortunately (or unfortunately), it is very well connected. There are roads around the whole park and internal shuttles take you from one place to another.

Admission Fee
A ticket (258 Yuan) includes Zhangjiajie National Forest Park, Yuanjiajie, Tianzi Mountain, Yangjiajie and Suoxiyu Nature Reserve (part). It is valid for 3 days. For who want to visit for a week, buy ticket 298 Yuan. It is valid for 7 days. The sightseeing bus is included in the fee.

  • Huangshi Village Cableway: 65 Yuan per way; 118 Yuan round trip;
  • Bailong Elevator: 72 Yuan per way; 144 Yuan round trip;
  • Yangjiajie Cable Car: 76 Yuan per way;
  • Tianzi Mountain Cable Car: 67 Yuan for one way; 134 Yuan for round trip;
  • Ten-Miles Gallery Mini Train: 38 Yuan per way; 52 Yuan round trip;
  • Yellow Dragon Cave: 100 Yuan per person;
  • Baofeng Lake: 96 Yuan per person.

There are many places to cover and many routes you can take. I would highly recommend taking a map and planning out a route before heading to the park. If you want to find out the route I followed, read this article: The Avatar mountains are real: welcome to Zhangjiajie

Tips for first-time visitors

  • Zhangjiajie is a city in Hunan province. Other than the national park, there are quite a few wonderful attractions (like Tianmen mountain). If possible, keep some additional time in hand.
  • Wulingyuan is a bit of a drive from Zhangjiajie airport. If you land late at night, it is advisable to book a car from your hotel or hostel.
  • If you want to visit the glass bridge, ask your hostel for tickets. Chinese nationals have certain restrictions and most likely need to book tickets beforehand.
  • Remember China does not allow many common sites like Google, Facebook etc. Make sure you download and test a reliable VPN beforehand. A few free VPNs are available on Playstore and they work alright for basic communication purposes.
  • As a common tip for any trip in China, remember to write down your address in Chinese and English both. Some taxi drivers may not understand the English name and you might get stuck in the middle of nowhere.
  • Brace yourself for mass tourism. It is not uncommon to see huge local groups with loud microphones in the middle of the national park. Whether you like it or not, that is the reality. When you are in a different country, learn to adjust to their way of life.

 

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Solo travel

10 valuable tips for your first solo trip

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You have done it. You have taken the first step and booked your tickets for your first solo trip. It might be due to all the crazy solo travel stories you recently read in the media, it might be because of your friend or family who talked you into it, or it might be a thing you have just always wanted to try out. It doesn’t matter, really. The only thing that matters is, you are going.

In another post I had talked about “Do we really need to travel solo?” and I clearly mention that one of the greatest gifts of solo travel is that you learn to live with yourself and love yourself. But here is the real deal: you get as much out of any journey as much you really want to. Solo travel is no different.

You can go on a solo trip and spend it holed up in a five star resort being hooked to your phone and return learning nothing out of your solo trip. You can also really put yourself out there, be open to new ideas, and go out of your comfort zone every day to try something new and come back with a head full of memories.

So here are a few tips to follow on your first solo trip (or really trip) to get the best out of it.

1. Stop looking at your phone

Seriously, just stop it already. You took this solo trip to learn more about a new country and to learn more about yourself. Your phone is not helping you accomplish either. Social media can wait and so can the countless pictures. Use your phone only when absolutely necessary.

Now this is tougher than it sounds. Whenever we are alone in a private room or in a public place and have nothing to do, our first instinct is to take out our phone and look busy. When you travel solo, you will almost always be in public places alone. Sitting alone in a restaurant, in a bar, in a hostel’s common area and so on. You can spend this time glued to your phone and living in your comfort zone, or you can choose to look up and smile at the first person you see around you.

Not everyone will smile back. Some will only smile back and pass by but one or two of them will not only smile back but also appear eager for a conversation.

You don’t always have to make friends either. Sometimes, you just have to be present, fully present.

Observe and soak in every bit of the new place you just arrived at. Marvel at the scenery or the architecture or just observe the locals and their daily lives.

2. Choose your accommodation carefully

A common misconception is you have to stay in a hostel on your solo trip. Hostels are great but that’s not the only option.

Some of the best memories I have are of staying with local hosts in homestays. Sometimes in a village far from the city and sometimes right by the beach at the heart of the city. If you truly want to understand a city or a country, who better than locals to discuss it with?

Homestay in lombok

Homestay in lombok

Choose a homestay where the host actually stays in the homestay and is happy to guide you around. Make sure you spend enough time with your host and ask him questions. Questions about his life, about the city, what do they do in their free time, what are their challenges, what does he love about the city and so on. Leave your host with a small gift if possible as a gesture of gratefulness for helping you out.

Today online websites like Airbnb, Homeaway and Homestay.com can help you reserve a homestay within minutes.

Having said that, hostels are definitely a great way to experience the backpacker life as well as make friends. They have common areas where a lot of people tend to hang out. If you choose a bed in a dorm, you might just make friends with some of your roomates as well. Quite often, you will end up exploring the city together and if you are travelling long term, you might even end up planning your next destination together.

Remember, a lot of hostels are party hostels. They will have party buses going around town, and late night parties in the hostel itself. If you are a party person, this is your jam but if not, stay away, unless you want to ruin a good night’s sleep.

Moreover, I would suggest that if you ever fall sick during your trip, check yourself into a nice hotel and order room service. Pamper yourself, at least till you get better.

3. Leave some flexibility in your schedule

You are travelling solo for the first time. You don’t want to get bored, so you went ahead and planned every minute of your day for the entire trip. Great adventures could happen to you but now, where would they fit in? Give yourself a chance to be surprised.

Adventure solo travel

One of the best trips I took was a impromptu solo trip from Singapore to Penang (Malaysia). I booked the tickets one week before the trip, booked a hostel and just took off. On my way, I was googling things to see in Penang because I had no clue.

I ended up going out for dinner with a roommate from my hostel. We met a bunch of other expats and travellers who stay in Penang and hung out with them till late night. Not only did we have a great time but we also went to a national park together the next day. I didn’t even know that national park existed but ended up having having a wonderful day. Today, don’t even recall all of their names but I clearly remember all the great times we had together.

I remember hearing about their journeys and thinking maybe one day I could be like them: a young British girl who was going around the world for a year, a French guy who was living in Penang and working in a bar, a Mauritian girl who was doing an internship there and was deciding her next destination, a Malaysian guy who lived there and a semi-hippie who had no idea how long he would be in Penang for.

All of this would not have been possible if I had every minute of my day mapped out. That said, I did take off by the next day evening because I really wanted to explore a Peranakan museum before it closed. They had plenty of time in Penang but I did not. Be flexible, say yes to new plans but also decide your own priorities.

4. Do as the locals do

You want to really learn about a place? Don’t just talk to locals but try putting yourself in their shoes. Use their public transport, eat their food, go to their night markets and experience their struggles and their conveniences. Try to figure out, given a choice, would you ever live in this city?

As you attempt to do this, you will get lost on the streets, you will get tired of people trying to scam a foreigner like you, and you might even get food poisoning from the street food. That’s okay. That’s how you learn.

Next time you will figure out public transport system in a new country a bit faster. Next time you will not get scammed. Next time you will know how much your stomach can take and prepare for it. Next time, you will pack light so that your don’t have to drag around your heavy luggage. Next time you will know what to do if your passport gets stolen.

5. Please have realistic expectations

I have often seen travellers going to a destination and trying to find something that it’s not known for and then criticise it. Singapore is not known for its natural beauty, it does not have volcanoes or mighty high mountains. Don’t come here looking for the same. Similarly, Seville (Spain) is not known for its beaches. Don’t go and try to find the same. You will be disappointed.

When you choose your destination, ask yourself why you are choosing this place. If you want a beach vacation, is this place known for beaches? Or are there a number of islands nearby that actually are known for better beaches?

Something as simple as this not only saves you time but also prevents you from appearing like a clueless and snobbish traveller.

6. Spend some time doing nothing

I know this sounds crazy. You are in a new country and the world is your oyster. Why should you stop even for a second? This goes back to falling in love with yourself. Spend some time with yourself.

You can meditate. You can just sit by the beach and watch a spectacular sunset. You can just sit in a cafe and enjoy a nice meal. The point is, give yourself a chance to calm down and sit still. A lot of memories will come flooding back. All your stress, your failures, your insecurities. Don’t ignore them. Live through them and you will come out stronger.

It’s hard to explain how much can come out of just doing nothing.

One of my fond memories from Indonesia is sitting on a beach cafe/hut in Gili Air (a gorgeous tropical island near Lombok) and spending about 6-7 hours with myself. After an amazing time in Lombok, I wasn’t really loving my first and only day in Gili Air but that sunset changed it all.

I sat there sipping a colourful drink and watching the sun go down behind the crystal clear green water. I read my book for a few hours and eventually had dinner. It started pouring but they were ready for it. They pulled down the bamboo curtains on the sides and I remained protected inside the mini hut. I sat there, just staring at the storm take over the island and the waves getting stronger. And then the storm disappeared, almost as suddenly as it had arrived.

7. Prepare for the kind of trip you are planning

While some of the planning is fine for last moment, some of it is not. Depending on what kind of trip you are going for, make the necessary preparations.

If you are going hiking, make sure you have good hiking shoes. Make sure you wear your new hiking shoes for a small hike before the trip to break into it. Carry some extra straps if you are going into the wild with a backpack. Think through different scenarios like what would you do if your backpack straps tear off? What if the sole of your shoes come off? What if your hostel does not provide towels? Pack accordingly.

If you are venturing to off-beaten places like Papua, do some more research and read blogs of other travellers. For example, many parts of Papua require special permits. Find out how to get these. You are also recommended to take malaria pills before, during and after the trip. Follow these guidelines.

It’s also worth reading up about the crime rate, the types of common crimes, and any particularly dangerous areas to stay away from. Always tell someone (your friend or family) about where you are going and where you are staying. All of these will ensure you have a safe and sound trip.

8. Always carry more cash than you will need

In the age of credit cards and apps you will be surprised how many areas still run on cash. Plus, it never hurts. Nobody is ever going to refuse cash, well unless you are in China, where you might run into some difficulties but that’s an exception.

What’s more, sometime you will come across certain activities that you did not plan for but now you really want to go for it. The additional cash helps. Sometimes one taxi ride can make you go broke (hint: Japan). The extra cash ensures you don’t have to spend a few hours looking for an ATM in a foreign country, where half the ATMs don’t accept your card and most of the people don’t even understand what you are asking for.

Spread out the cash in multiple places. Carry some in your daily backpack, some in your wallet. Keep a little in your pocket or in your money belt if you are wearing one. Stash away some emergency money deep in your backpack and never look at it unless it’s really an emergency.

The credit/debit card you carry, make sure to speak to your bank to enable foreign transactions.

9. Write down some important addresses and carry it with you

Your phone might run out of charge or you might lose your phone altogether. Don’t let your phone be the only source of information. Remember, you don’t have a travel buddy to fall back on.

On a physical paper, write down some important address and contact numbers like that of your hostel, some nearby landmarks, your emergency contacts, the details of your country’s embassy etc and carry it with you at all times.

Locals in most places are very friendly and happy to help out but they can’t help you if you don’t know where you need to go.

10. Be ready for disappointments

I can’t stress this enough. I really can’t. More than half the people you try to approach may not reciprocate. That’s okay. Don’t give up. Friendships occur in the most unexpected ways at the most unexpected places.

You might hate most of the new food you try. But you will never find that mouth-watering dish till you try them all.

Street food in Vietnam

Street food in Vietnam

You might and almost certainly at some point will feel lonely. Don’t try to push away the void. Learn to embrace it. Read a book, listen to some good music, pamper yourself with a massage, and remember you can always reach out to your friends and family. They are just a phone call away.

Your first solo trip may or may not be the most amazing thing that happened to you but if you do it right, you should have learnt a few things out of it. You should have grown a little as a person and that’s all that matters.

Solo travel

The moments that take your breath away

Learn to open up your heart. People in most places are wonderful. Learn from them and help them if you can. Trust your instincts. Most often than not, they are right. Most importantly, enjoy the independence, treasure the memories and don’t stop travelling!

 

If you enjoyed this article, don’t forget to follow my adventures on Facebook and Instagram!

 

Sunset over Bai Tu Long Bay

The magic of Ha Long Bay- my first encounter with Vietnam

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Ha Long Bay literally translates into the bay of descending dragons. The first time I read about Ha Long Bay was about 6 years ago. I saw a picture of the unearthly limestone karsts blasting out of the emerald green water and I knew this has to go on my bucket list.

Fast forward to 2018, I woke up one day and decided, this is the year I start ticking off items from my bucket list, rather than lengthening the list. Of course, I was aware of my hectic schedule that allows only two weeks of annual leave but I would not let that deter me. I searched through my calendar for a suitable time, applied for leave and booked my flight to Hanoi, from where I would go to Ha Long Bay.

Choosing a cruise for Ha Long Bay is the ultimate nightmare

I decided that with my time constraints, I could do a 2D 1N cruise on Ha Long Bay. The day trips were way too short for my taste and I did not have enough time to do the 3D trip. However, I also read that Ha Long Bay is terribly overcrowded and there is a quieter alternative- Bai Tu Long Bay.

Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay, although crowded, is the UNESCO heritage site that is known to be the most beautiful one but Bai Tu Long Bay is the more secluded and peaceful one. Thus began my search for the perfect cruise which would hopefully cover both the bays. When I searched online, I was greeted with a number of tour operators who offer different itineraries and belong to separate price range.

From my research, here is what I learnt: if you can afford it, go for a mid-range cruise. My all-inclusive package of Vega tours for 2D1N cost me 120 USD. Make sure you read the itinerary carefully, many cruises are party cruises which will blast music throughout the evening. If you want your peace and quiet, choose one accordingly. Not many cruises go to Bai Tu Long Bay. If you want to visit it, make sure the itinerary explicitly mentions it. I found Vega cruises to one of the rare options that do cover both Bai Tu Long Bay and Ha Long Bay. After a few emails back and forth, I booked my tour and anxiously waited for the date to arrive.

Hanoi to Ha Long Bay

I’m not going to go into details of my arrival at Hanoi since that deserves a separate chapter altogether but instead, let’s start with my first day of the Ha Long Bay tour. A van from Vega Tour picked me up from the hostel around 7.30-8am and about 13 other people joined us.

Ha Long Bay cruise

Small boats to transfer to our big boat

We travelled for about 3-4 hours before reaching the Ha Long Bay harbour and boarding our cruise/ Chinese junk. Our guide was an extremely friendly Vietnamese man who introduced himself as well encouraged us to mingle among ourselves.

Day 1: Welcome to Bai Tu Long Bay

We sat down for lunch and our guide announced: “Most boats take the turn towards Ha Long Bay but we will continue our journey to the quieter part of Bai Tu Long Bay where we can later go kayaking.”

As the first limestone karst came into my sight, I could barely contain my excitement. I got up from my lunch table and peeked through the window, with the fork still in my hand. Here I was, finally, after 5 years of daydreaming about this place.

Bai Tu Long Bay

After our lunch, we were transferred to a smaller boat which took us along the thousands of islets and dropped us of at the entrance of a cave. Like many caves in Vietnam, this cave was filled with shiny white stalagmites, some of which also make a musical sound if you hit it with a stick at certain angles! We finally got out of the cave and transferred to kayaks.

Limestone caves in Ha Long Bay

Limestone caves

Sunset over Bai Tu Long Bay

We were on a 2 person kayak and I was with my friend and travel buddy, Lisa. The next hour was almost comical as we kept trying to find our coordinated rhythm and I kept splashing a lot of water on her in the process! Nevertheless, as we paddled over the emerald water and crossed the giant limestone karsts at every turn, I almost couldn’t help but wonder how these surreal islets could have been naturally created without any human intervention.

Busy in my thoughts, I almost didn’t notice it was time for sunset. Once I did, we paddled to an area that has an unobstructed view to the sunset and simply laid down our paddles.

Sunset over Bai Tu Long Bay

Sunset over Bai Tu Long Bay

I stared in dismay as the golden ball slowly started descending over the conical peaks and towers of the islets. The sky changed colours and it was truly a magical moment. The fact that we were sitting on a thin kayak, right on top of the same water that reflected the sunset colours, somehow made the moment more special.

These are the moments that take our breath away and transport us to a different world. These are the moments that make us believe in magic. These are the moments that make life worth living.

As the sun fully descended behind the peaks, we slowly paddled back along a floating village and onwards to our boat to rest for the evening.

A failed attempt at making Vietnamese spring rolls

Before we proceeded to dinner, our tour guide organized a quick cooking lesson for us, just what I always dreaded! As much as I love food, I dread the process of making it. Nevertheless, I put on my gloves and stood there trying to imitate his moves. Turns out, I wasn’t the only one.

Vietnamese spring roll making class

Vietnamese spring roll making class

Another member of our group asked, “Is this our dinner?” and when I responded in negative, he was relieved!

Although they had given us all the ingredients and we only had to wrap everything together and make a spring roll, I failed, of course! My spring rolls were all over the place but I ate them anyway and they were absolutely fresh and delicious. Vietnamese food, after all, is one of the best cuisines in the world.

Dinner is a lengthy affair

I’m convinced that all the money we paid was for our meals. There were endless dishes, each more delicious than the next. We sat across a lovely French couple and enjoyed a lengthy dinner coupled with good conversation, laughter, and even some magic tricks organized by our tour guide.

We were to wake up at 6 am the following day and hence we decided to call it a night. I couldn’t help but wonder what the moon looks like from this part of the world. I snuck out to the top deck of our cruise to enjoy a few moments in solitude.

It would have been pitch dark had it not been for the full moon shining it’s bright white light all over the bay. I enjoyed the pin-drop silence and gazed at the moon that had conveniently found a gap in the peak of an islet and lay exactly in that gap. Indeed, nature offers endless beauty, if you take out a minute to notice it.

Day 2: Ha Long Bay and Surprise Cave

I had a blissful sleep and even after I opened my eyes, I lay in bed admiring the gorgeous structures all around me. The feeling of waking up to the magic of Ha Long Bay can not be described in words. If not for anything else, just for this feeling alone, you should book an overnight trip to Ha Long Bay.

Waking up in Ha Long Bay

Waking up in Ha Long Bay

Finally, I got up and clicked a few pictures before we were transferred to the smaller boat to visit Song Sut (Surprise) cave. Song Sut cave is one of the largest caves of Ha Long Bay and has been commercialized quite a bit for the tourists. However, it still remains a sight worth a visit.

On top of the world in Titop island

Most cruises don’t cover Titop island but this may just be the best part of Ha Long Bay. A tiny island with a small beach, Titop is known for the short hike that provides a spectacular 360-degree view of all the three bays- Ha Long Bay, Bai Tu Long Bay, and Lan Ha Bay.

With my never-to-recover ankle injury, I wondered if I would be able to climb the 340 odd steps without damaging my ankle too much but it was easier than I expected as there are well-built steps throughout. The peak is crowded for sure but the view is worth everything. The pictures speak for themselves.

Here is a suggestion, if your itinerary does not include Titop island, choose another tour!

Goodbyes and pictures

Titop island was our last stop in Ha Long Bay. For the next hour or so, we cruised along the most scenic routes of Ha Long Bay to witness the famous formations like the fighting cocks, the dog stone and many more. Some of the areas truly seem to be out of a Hollywood movie set and despite the hundred other boats, there is a strange serenity here.

Finally, we settled down for our last meal and I waved goodbye to this place that will always hold a special place in my heart. We clicked a few group pictures as the boat reached the harbour, thus marking the end of this beautiful journey.

Group picture!

I had successfully ticked off this item from my bucket list and Ha Long Bay was everything I dreamt it would be and so much more.

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Hong Kong

Moving to a new country all alone

, 36

My story in Hong Kong

Hong Kong- the city of dreams in Asia! Everyone imagines the glittery skyline, the insane high salaries, abundance of opportunities, low tax rates and awesome night life.

Not too many people know about the severe housing crisis that forces the 7 million+ people to live in homes that are perhaps a slightly better version of coffins. Not too many people tell you that despite knowing English, the locals have an extremely strong preference towards Cantonese. Not too many people tell you that professionals regularly return home from work at 1am.

But I kind of knew all these and more. I had some done research and spoken to some people. I already had a rough idea and yet I was shocked when I actually landed there.

First view of HK (from the airport)

First view of HK (from the airport)

On a fine January morning, I took a bumpy flight to Hong Kong with some seriously heavy luggage and landed at a completely foreign land all alone for my internship. Sounds a bit daunting, right? I had some help though.

I had found this internship via AIESEC and they were sweet enough to send not one but three people to receive me and find my way home. They even took me out for lunch, got me my first sim card and introduced me to the supermarket! I couldn’t be more thankful.

After this, I was pretty much all alone.

The first few days in a new country

I wasn’t always this happy at first

My misery started from my suitcase being damaged at the airport and continued with struggling to understand how to top up my data pack and using google translate at every point to communicate with local shop owners.

Fortunately or unfortunately, I had chosen a rather local community to reside in. While this was cheaper than Hong Kong island, ratio of expats here were pretty much as good as none. While Hong Kong island is widely multi-cultural with a big community of expats, the other areas of Hong Kong are quite the opposite.

The streets of Mong kok

The streets of Mong kok

Now comes housing. I was aware of the housing issues of this city and yet I gasped as I stepped into my own room. I couldn’t believe I was paying a hefty amount for a room which was just a notch higher than a prison cell.

No space to open my suitcase, terribly dirty kitchen and a washroom that is to be shared by 6 people- 5 others being men! To top it all, the landlady had not provided a warm blanket or a pillow in the extremely uncomfortable bed. I twisted, turned and shivered but could not fall asleep on my first night.

I sat up to drink some water, only to realize tap water is not drinkable and you had to boil the water and wait for it to cool down before you can drink it.  The other option, buy bottled water every time!

Good times don’t come too easy

The next few days were not kinder to me either. I struggled to order food in restaurants where the menu is written in Chinese, I dried my clothes on a thin wire in the dirty terrace as the dryer wasn’t working and I craved to drink some fresh fruit juice after my meal only to discover most places don’t offer any! Most importantly, I missed just hanging out with people.

However, I tried to hold my head up and adjust. The only good part was my office which was peaceful and located beside the sea.

 

Office space

Office space

I was carrying a lot of cash but I needed to open a bank account. I needed a local account for 2 reasons- firstly to receive my salary and secondly, to receive some money from my family at reasonable rates.

Since I was an intern in Hong Kong for three months, I was on a training visa. I woke up early morning and rushed to different banks every day before heading to office, only to be rejected by each of them.

My last hope was HSBC- the local bank. After visiting three different branches and following different sets of instructions, I was once again informed that they wouldn’t be able to open an account for me. This was when I had my first meltdown. I entered my tiny room and simply broke down.

Make your own way gal

I was lucky to receive tremendous support from my family and friends back home and in other countries. At this point, I remembered what I had promised myself two years ago- “Give every country a chance and make the best of what you have.”

The view after the mild hike in Tai O

The view after the mild hike in Tai O

 

Distant hills and clouds

Distant hills and clouds

I finally ventured out and started visiting every known and unknown destination in Hong Kong. From marvelling at the city from the Victoria peak, joining different meet up groups and meeting people, getting lost in the streets of Mong Kok to being mesmerized by nature in the outlying islands of Hong Kong, I did it all!

Go find your happiness

The park beside my house

The park beside my house

I found a nearby park and went for a walk almost every night. I loved the cool breeze on my face and enjoyed Hong Kong’s safety. I went grocery shopping at 11pm and ate siu mai at midnight. I filmed random people dancing in an absolutely bizarre manner on the streets of Mong Kok. I watched late night shows at a small theatre that showcases international films from all over the world. I loved how the city never slept!

I still didn’t know anyone in this city. 3 things happened. Firstly, at some point, AIESEC organized a day trip and I met a few amazing expats there who later became my friends.

 

We discovered Hong Kong together

Second, I went for a casual meet up and guess what, we all got along much better than I expected! We went to watch the Chinese New Year Parade together, grabbed dinner and had a great time. It didn’t last though, due to our busy schedules.

Third, my old housemate from Singapore moved back to Hong Kong and I got to catch up with him and his amazing wife. A familiar face in a foreign land makes you feel right at home and they did just that.

My Singapore flatmate and his amazing wife

My Singapore flatmate and his amazing wife

Through these people, I met some more people. All relationships don’t last but guess what, if you really make an effort, some do and that’s all you need.

OMG! Such a beautiful country!

The beautiful island of Cheung Chau

The beautiful island of Cheung Chau

As I began to explore the country, I fell in love with its astounding natural beauty. From the less visited places like Sai Kung to the famous islands like Cheung Chau, I left nothing out.

Of course, it can be argued that many countries have equally stunning landscape but the beauty of Hong Kong lies in the stark contrast. One minute you are surrounded by skyscrapers and narrow alleys and the next minute you are walking down paths surrounded by hills and oceans.

They say you get used to beauty. In my three months in Hong Kong, I never did. Every time I left my house and walked around, I was delighted at the sight of random mountains popping up from nowhere. Every time I crossed a bridge over the ocean with stunning view of the islands, I couldn’t stop staring.

Random temples

Random temples

I fell in love with the mouth-watering food, the gorgeous temples, the numerous laid back islands, the beautiful festivals, the magical street art and most importantly, the vibe of the city.

Freshly made egg tarts

Freshly made egg-tarts

Every time I walked down the streets of Hong Kong, I could feel its heart. I could feel the people living and breathing. I could feel the energy of the city and that’s what makes Hong Kong so special. It has its own unique character and it refuses to let it go!

Lion dance in Hong Kong

Lion dance in Hong Kong

It took Hong Kong less than a week to break me and less than a month to make me fall in love with it. A city that you learn to love.

Take that chance

Hong Kong's glittery skyline

Hong Kong’s glittery skyline

To any adventurous soul who has the opportunity to live in a new country, I urge you to take it. It won’t always be easy. You will face tremendous challenges and you will be lonely sometimes.

However, it’s worth every dime if you can ride through the initial jerk! You learn so much, each second, each day. You meet people in the most unbelievable ways and form everlasting bonds. You will truly understand a new culture and your perspective will broaden more than you can ever imagine.

You learn to survive on your own and find your own happiness. When you finally leave the country, you emerge as a changed person, independent, strong and tolerant.

 

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